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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, hoping someone can help.

Yesterday I fitted a new mechanical fuel pump (100mm push rod version) on my 1600 tp. Added two gaskets on top of the plastic flange. Rod sticks up about 1mm at lowest and 5mm at highest which from what I’ve read seems ok. Connected up a pressure tester (albeit a cheap one from Amazon) and that was reading around 4.5psi. Everything seemed to run ok, but when I switched off I ended up with fuel leaking from the carb spindles, I assume because the pressure is so high it’s forcing past the float valve.

So I guess I have two questions. How many gaskets could I add before I end up reducing the fuel volume too much? Or, if I leave it as it is and get a pressure regulator which one should I get?

Thanks in advance
 

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I think Volksworld had an article on it a while ago and stated that adding an extra gasket under the pump reduced the pressure by about 0.3psi.
Try adding a couple more and see how it reads on the pressure tester.
 

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As a slight aside, always carry a spare pump - perhaps two - if you've fitted a brand new aftermarket one. I have seen them fail catastrophically in as little as three weeks...
 

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Check your carb to see where the fuel leakage is coming from, sometimes the float valve is fine, but the accelerator pump check valve isn't sealing properly.
The fuel pressure seems OK, the carb should be able to handle 5 psi without leakage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Check your carb to see where the fuel leakage is coming from, sometimes the float valve is fine, but the accelerator pump check valve isn't sealing properly.
The fuel pressure seems OK, the carb should be able to handle 5 psi without leakage.
Thanks Ben, just to be more annoying, I'm not really up on my carb knowledge, where would I be looking to see what is leaking?

Cheers
Carl
 

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Thanks Ben, just to be more annoying, I'm not really up on my carb knowledge, where would I be looking to see what is leaking?

Cheers
Carl
I presume your carb is a stock Solex 30 PICT 2 or 3 ?
Immediately after stopping the engine, remove the air cleaner and look down the throat of the carb.
If the float needle valve is leaking the fuel will be dripping from the cast alloy 'spout' in the centre of the carb venturi.
If the accelerator pump check valve is leaking, the fuel will be dripping from the brass 'spout' which is slightly offset from the centre.
Perhaps this schematic will help :
Line Font Engineering Parallel Auto part
 

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All the after market pumps put out too much pressure. The best solution is to fit an original rebuildable one using the rebuild kit from Wolfsburg west which has the correct spring rate. Failing that a pressure regulator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks guys... was wondering about the spring. My pump is a rebuildable one from heritage (113-127-025/F)


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I'll check out a rebuild kit and compare springs

Thanks everyone
 

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Thanks guys... was wondering about the spring. My pump is a rebuildable one from heritage (113-127-025/F)


View attachment 295762

I'll check out a rebuild kit and compare springs

Thanks everyone
I'm using one of those on my 1600. It is supposed to be Ethanol safe. Hasn't given any pressure problems, with a stock 30 PICT 3
 

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Don't bother with mechanical pumps. You have no idea if these repro ones are E10 compliant, they are all mostly Chinese of Brazilian shite. If they fail they have a tendency to pump fuel into the crankcase, this is potentially very bad for your engines bottom end. I have had it happen twice on my old Beetle and once on my T3 WBX.

The only long term solution is to to fit an electric pump with suitable pressure. I have gone with a Facet Posi-Flo 60104 as it's output is suitable for most carbs. They are safer too, they minimise the number of unions in the engine bay an can be fitted with an inline solid filter.
 

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The Wolfsburg west kit is e10 compatible to allow you to rebuild the original Vw pump.
 

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The Wolfsburg west kit is e10 compatible to allow you to rebuild the original Vw pump.
That sounds like an ideal solution. I have a rebuildable pump, but it is for an engine fitted with a dynamo.
Did VW ever fit a rebuildable pump on engines fitted with an Alternator ?
 

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The early pump clears the alternator. I ran one for years.
 
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The Wolfsburg west kit is e10 compatible to allow you to rebuild the original Vw pump.
That is great. But first you have to find an rebuildable pump, they aren
The Wolfsburg west kit is e10 compatible to allow you to rebuild the original Vw pump.
If you have that type of pump. If not your stuck with the repro crap. But TBH I'd still prefer the electric pump, there are less unions in the engine bay and less rubber hose in the entire system. With an electric pump you don't have to crank for ages to fill the float bowl and I can hardline the entire system.
 

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Electric pumps are good on lowered beetles with rake at the front. Gravity feed to the pump then let the pump push fuel to the carb
 
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