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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I need to drop the engine, I have taken all 4 17mm nuts off, the rear tinwork (small cover on rear pulley, wide tray that runs across the back and the two heat riser plates), the hot air ducts, accelerator cable, electrics, fuel pipe and hot air valve control wires.

The motor seems to be well and truly hanging on in there.

Do I just keep wiggling and pulling?

Have I missed something? I assume the other tinwork stays on the motor.
 

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Presume you have a trolley jack under the engine, and the rear of the car is raised. the top 2 17 mm nuts are on bolts, push the bolts through. You will need to draw the engine back and slightly upwards, (because the car is now tilted forwards), keep it in line with the gearbox until the bottom studs clear the gearbox, then a bit more until the input shaft clears the clutch, then it can be gently lowered. All the remaining tin can stay on the engine, keep wiggling, and lower slowly, watching all around so nothing gets caught or trapped.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It's easy when you find out that one of the 17mm nuts is actually a big cap head bolt, screwed in from the gearbox side, just up above the clutch release lever.... Almost impossible to get at with anything other than an 8mm allen key with a ratchet spanner on it.

Once I found that, it was plane sailing.

The motor popped out. It's a squeeze with the the alternator pulley hard against the rubber seal and the clutch springs against the bell housing.

I dropped the motor onto a wheeled dolly but that meant getting the car really high to get clearance. I can see a removable valance in my future!

I haven't seen any of guides mention the cap head bolt threaded into the motor flange.

It added a good few hours to the job.

Now to inspect the damage to no. 3 cylinder. Hopefully just a dropped valve seat....
 

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Cap bolt on left top is not stock spec. but an interesting mod. easier to get to with an allen key than getting a socket onto a standard hex head bolt.
Sorry, I thought this was a stock 1300 single port engine, ("F" prefix), which, in stock form would have 2 loose 'D' head bolts at the top with M10 nuts on the engine side.
Later engines have a captive nut on the top left engine side with a hex bolt through the gearbox, next to clutch release lever, and these could be easier if they could be turned with an allen key.
Hope you don't find too many Horrors inside No.3
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Cap bolt on left top is not stock spec. but an interesting mod. easier to get to with an allen key than getting a socket onto a standard hex head bolt.
Sorry, I thought this was a stock 1300 single port engine, ("F" prefix), which, in stock form would have 2 loose 'D' head bolts at the top with M10 nuts on the engine side.
Later engines have a captive nut on the top left engine side with a hex bolt through the gearbox, next to clutch release lever, and these could be easier if they could be turned with an allen key.
Hope you don't find too many Horrors inside No.3
Ha! It certainly caught me out!

I asumed I'd bought a stock 1300 single port too!

There's the end of the bolt which I thought was a lose bolt without a nut on. The nut is actually sitting below, jamed in the gap.

But it was a tapped lug with a bolt going in from the gearbox side.

292914


20210504_174628 (Medium).jpg
 

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The 'lug' on the engine flange looks like the one fitted to the later type casing, it is actually splined and is pressed into the casing.
You don't need that with your earlier fan housing arrangement, (because you can get to a plain hex nut there).
You could remove it, ( fit a bolt from the gearbox side and tap the lug out), then replace with a stock 'D' head bolt and ordinary nut.
I may have a D bolt lying around, if you want one, just let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Got the motor out now, it's sitting on the bench and I am pondering the vast number of rusty, ceased, Cheese head screws I need to undo, to get the tinwork off....
 
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