Heater channel advice (pics)

6359 Views 10 Replies 7 Participants Last post by herbie53_, Oct 16, 2017

herbie53_

Discussion Starter · Mar 15, 2017

Hi,
I'm in the process of attempting to get my bug roadworthy again after discovering that the passenger side sill had pretty much fallen out.

I'm trying to decide how best to repair the sill and heater channel. I think patching up the floor pan edge and welding a new bottom plate would be a bad idea for safety reasons in an accident, as the bottom plate would not be fixed to the inside of the heater channel, so I'm wondering about the feasibility of replacing the whole heater channel.

The edge of the floor is in poor condition, but the middle of the floor has been previously replaced in the car, and the body is welded to the floor in a fair few places.

I don't really have the time or money for a body off restoration just at the moment, but I don't want to make something unsafe and bodged. I was wondering about cutting the whole heater channel out, letting in a floorplan edge repair panel, then welding in a new heater channel like this guy http://www.volkszone.com/VZi/showthread.php?t=682286&page=4 - what does everyone think?

I would describe myself as a beginner to intermediate welder, having welded in wheel arch repair panels front and rear, and a hooky's door pillar repair on the driver's side, and the door shuts properly.

Thanks

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rodntod

· #2 · Mar 15, 2017

Your old heater channel is a patchwork quilt and needs replaced to make the car safe.The lower A pillar needs done anyway,so if you cut the rot out of the body panels on that side higher than the channel you can replace the channel and pan /pan edge from the side,without removing the body.Just brace the door frame before you cut the channel out.

Ed

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clarkson

· #3 · Mar 15, 2017

I don't know about the heater channel. But if you want to make it safe, that 'chock block' connector is a fire waiting to happen. That cable needs jointing properly.

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cox71slammed

· #4 · Mar 15, 2017

clarkson said:
I don't know about the heater channel. But if you want to make it safe, that 'chock block' connector is a fire waiting to happen. That cable needs jointing properly.

The whole wiring harness is a fire waiting to happen!

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herbie53_

Discussion Starter · #5 · Mar 15, 2017

Thanks for the kind concern about the wiring, I'll certainly take a look at it before re-connecting the battery.

Thanks for the advice Ed, I was indeed planning to replace the bottom A post too.

I have hooky's heater channel closing plate, and am wondering whether this should be welded to the channel before fitting it to the car, or whether it is possible to make any adjustments with the channels trial fitted before joining the channel to the closing plate?

I've read this can be a good way of doing it, so as to make sure both the channel top is aligned with the body, and the boltholes align with the floorpan, but I guess it might be difficult with the body still on.

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cox71slammed

· #6 · Mar 15, 2017

herbie53_ said:
Thanks for the kind concern about the wiring, I'll certainly take a look at it before re-connecting the battery.

Thanks for the advice Ed, I was indeed planning to replace the bottom A post too.

I have hooky's heater channel closing plate, and am wondering whether this should be welded to the channel before fitting it to the car, or whether it is possible to make any adjustments with the channels trial fitted before joining the channel to the closing plate?

I've read this can be a good way of doing it, so as to make sure both the channel top is aligned with the body, and the boltholes align with the floorpan, but I guess it might be difficult with the body still on.

I would recommend that you just tack weld the closing plates to the new heater channels & trial fit before fully welding.

Phil

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Gwar72

· #7 · Mar 16, 2017

Do the job right first time, I started to look at patching heater channel then went for the whole replacement option. But be warned you can open a can of tin worm and have a lot more work than you first thought. Good Luck

To This....

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herbie53_

Discussion Starter · #8 · Oct 11, 2017

Thanks all for the guidance. It took about 6 months but I eventually got it done and she's back on the road! New Dansk channel, hookey's door pillar and front and rear inner arch repairs.

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Fimble

· #9 · Oct 12, 2017

herbie53_ said:
Thanks all for the guidance. It took about 6 months but I eventually got it done and she's back on the road! New Dansk channel, hookey's door pillar and front and rear inner arch repairs.

That looks like a job well done! How did you find the Dansk heater channels? I've got a pair in my garage waiting to go on, are they as good as they say they are or did you need to do any corrections?

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dap82

· #10 · Oct 13, 2017

Fimble said:
That looks like a job well done! How did you find the Dansk heater channels? I've got a pair in my garage waiting to go on, are they as good as they say they are or did you need to do any corrections?

Unfortunately all the repro heater channels are shit. The thickness of the steel is much thinner than the originals and the fit is poor. Dansk are slightly better from memory in that they paint the inside. If you can find genuine Mexican ones its the way to go - I've just managed to find a pair on here but the cost was £500 for the pair (they are becoming like gold dust). But as they say, you pays your money and you makes your choices.

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herbie53_

Discussion Starter · #11 · Oct 16, 2017

Fimble said:
That looks like a job well done! How did you find the Dansk heater channels? I've got a pair in my garage waiting to go on, are they as good as they say they are or did you need to do any corrections?

Cheers, compared with the wheel arch repair panels I used they were nice quality and a decent fit. Fairly thick steel and as dap says painted on the inside.

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