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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a bay window with a type4 2litre in it.

Recently a small bolt fell into the carb and damaged the head and piston. I have cleaned it all up (burs etc) and had the valve re-seated as reccommended.

All back together and basicly it seems to be running on 2 cylinders! i have twin carbs and they seem relitavely ballanced but its dificult to tell with the way its running.

The right bank which was not touched/damaged seems ok but the left is not really running at all. if i remove both plug leads it does not effect the performance. (the leads have been checked and are ok)

I did a compression test on the previously damaged cylinder and it seems ok but the other one is showing no compression at all? :crazy:

I have been working on the van for months now on and off and seem to be getting nowhere im fast losing faith in dubs, please help restore it. :(

any ideas?

cheers guys

:hangloose
 

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Look and see what the valve rockers are doing on the left side.
It's possible that one of the valves is being held slightly open,
giving no compression.

Sort that and then see about the non-firing.
You could have a small vac leak where the carb "manifold"
joins the head, since that was disturbed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks I will look into that.

The problem i have with the valves is that unlike a type1 engine there are no marks to check the valve timing at apart from tdc. Does anyone have any tips for a type4 motor?

I have done a basic air leak test with carb cleaner but it seemed fine.

:hangloose
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The pushrods on mine are the hollow ones so i assume manual. They have the usual nut and screw in adjuster as the type1 engine for the tappets.

cheers :hangloose
 

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Then adjust at TDC for 0.15mm

Use the position of the rotor arm as a rough location,
then line up the TDC mark on pulley/fan.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
TDC is not the problem, that is marked so 2 of the cylinders are ok to adjust but i have no way of determining where 180 degrees is from the TDC mark for the other 2 cylinders.

The manual says turn the engine till the valves both stop moving and are full shut then adjust the gap, but i cant see that something with such a small tollerance can be safe and accurate doing it this way.

:hangloose
 

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Then use the rotor arm as a guide. Make a paper template
with 90 deg markings.

Actually, the TDC point is not critical because the cam lobe
is quite flat in that region and moving the crank either sid
eof TDC won't have much effect.
 
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