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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi got a running problem on my 78 2l engine . its a calli import that had a cat and had a egr valve . ive replaced the points so its starts on the button. but in about 30 seconds from starting it wants to stall ,and does . fires on the next time key is turned but wont start. . having put a new single quite pack exhaust on the egris now redundant,tried to put a blank on top but still not cured it with or without it ? it has fuel or it would not run does the little electronic box on top of the air filter have anything to do with it . all worked fine in calli as i used it for about 1000 miles with cat and egr in place but since getting here no joy ...... who on here are the type 4 motor gurus that might be able to help ... many thanks in anticipation ??????? :incheek:
 

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Cali ?
I'm guessing this is fuel injected. Right??

If so, I would first check if the fuel pump runs after the
engine does start.

The pump runs whilst cranking and then should keep
running at idle.

There is basic FI controls info on this page of my web site:
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/htm/elec.htm
along with a simplified diagram.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
hi thanks for the reply . got this saturday off so ill check that the fuel pump still runs. yes forgot to mention it was injected .cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
fuel pump

Speedy Jim said:
Cali ?
I'm guessing this is fuel injected. Right??

If so, I would first check if the fuel pump runs after the
engine does start.

The pump runs whilst cranking and then should keep
running at idle.

There is basic FI controls info on this page of my web site:
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/htm/elec.htm
along with a simplified diagram.
hi mate just an update on my 2L. injection running problems .i removed the fuel pump and fuel filter (pump looks new) emptied fuel and connected to a battery to test it runs continueslywhile connected to a battery and stops when disconnected . fuel filter was clear . reconnected everything . removed plugs cleaned and checked gaps refitted them . removed points checked for pitting all good re set gap .bus would not start . i removed plug to air box electronics it starts then but only runs for a few seconds revs good then stalls ..will not start with it connected ...fitted new exhaust too then did away with box from there to egr valve tried blanking it off and leaving it open makes no difference .. its allmost as if its being told to shut down some how . any ideas on where alse to look cheers steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
update

junglemod said:
hi mate just an update on my 2L. injection running problems .i removed the fuel pump and fuel filter (pump looks new) emptied fuel and connected to a battery to test it runs continueslywhile connected to a battery and stops when disconnected . fuel filter was clear . reconnected everything . removed plugs cleaned and checked gaps refitted them . removed points checked for pitting all good re set gap .bus would not start . i removed plug to air box electronics it starts then but only runs for a few seconds revs good then stalls ..will not start with it connected ...fitted new exhaust too then did away with box from there to egr valve tried blanking it off and leaving it open makes no difference .. its allmost as if its being told to shut down some how . any ideas on where alse to look cheers steve
right .been through alot of stuff recently on this but stil not running (was before i shipped it here to the uk ) 1000 miles to be exact ... had a look at the twin relay scenario in previous help even down to swopping it for a different one . no joy checked ohms at top of air box connections all within tolerance ... even tried swoppin the brain no joy . removed head temp switch connection and earthed it seperately with a crocodile clip no joy ... removed all injector connections cranked a few times then tried to connect one at a time to see if it fired thinking the brain might have latched .. no joy.. today replaced all injector seals , gaskets , ant round seals to manifold no joy ... someone must know a little more on these motors :rolleyes: cheers steve
 

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I recommend putting a fuel pressure gauge on the test port
(left side of engine) in the fuel ring.

Gauge should read about 30 psi during cranking AND
stay the same all the time the engine is running.

This test will help steer you to a fuel problem or away from it.

Next (or at the same time), put a multimeter from chassis to the
ballast resistor pack (next to the double relay). Any terminal
on the ballast will do.

The meter must read ~12V BOTH during cranking AND when
the key has been released. This voltage is the power supply to
the ECU.

-------------------------
Check ALL of the rubber hoses in the air intake system for
loose conenctions or tears and splits in the rubber.
These can be very hard to spot, but a small leak in a hose
will prevent the engine from running.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
hi jim thanks again for the tips . ive checked ive got pressure at the fuel rail by releasing the test point a little its under pressure . but not checked what the pressure is . ive not checked the voltage at resistor bank ill do that next , but not back off work now till next thursday so ill keep you posted cheers steve
 
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