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Help with PICT30/31 on a 1200 - I know a common request... Sorry.

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2.6K views 31 replies 6 participants last post by  Big Al  
#1 ·
Hello everyone,

When I introduced myself I warned all to watch out for annoying/silly questions, so I may as well get the ball rolling. Sorry, I didn't forewarn you all, they'd also be long ones!

Here goes:

We've owned our lovely little bug for all of about 6 weeks, and got to enjoy it for around two weeks before an annoying misfire developed after we'd be driving it for 5-10miles.

The car's fitted with a mid-seventies replacement D series 1200, which appears to have been in there around 14 years now, had a 12V conversion last year, and from what I can tell has been relatively well maintained (mechanically) over the past 20 odd years.

Back to the misfire, it was only ever at higher speeds/gears and intermittent. You could lift off the throttle, reapply, and kind of momentarily 'judder' through it. After a couple of minutes of this repertoire it would clear, but then return a number of minutes later. The further you drove the more frequently it would return.

In an effort to chase this down, and lacking definitive knowledge of the specifics of the dizzy etc. (it looks like a cheaper 009 - modern, minimal markings/stampings, but relatively new) I proceeded to change the following:

Points (gapped to 0.4mm)
Condensor
Rotor Arm
Cap
Leads
Plugs (gapped to 0.6mm
(Oil, strainer, etc., additionally, but don't I think those bits aren't overly relevant to the topic)

On the assumption it is a generic 009.

Timing wise, I read and appreciate that total advance is more important than static timing. But, only having a basic timing light (doesn't have the function to set target advance and time to TDC) I just checked/set it statically to 7˚BTDC.

Feeling hesitantly hopeful we went out for a spin, no benefit, it would start on the button from cold etc. but same misfire, same characteristics, and FYI we only fill it with either VPower or the Esso equivalent. Ol plugs looked great btw when they came out. Yep, all leads fully homed, and as good a quality parts as I could buy.

So, back to the drawing board and more reading around. Ah the coil, I didn't do that - twot! And obviously there's also the good insights around the web that "just because something's new doesn't necessarily mean it's in good order" - condensers etc. So, f-it, I took the plunge and ordered a Pertronix Ignitor & Flamethrower coil, bit of an overkill for a 1200 maybe?

I was also starting to question the fuel side of the equation, on the assumption, there's not much else on the ignition...

The ol thing's got/had a rather tired looking 28PICT1, the throttle return was shite, and the choke element feeling like it had way too much 'rotational slope', and (the worse bit) one of the choke securing bolt holes was stripped of thread. So, probably too hastily, I ordered an aftermarket PICT30/31 type carburettor.

And, this is where I'm finally (starting to) getting to my point, and the bit I'm now needing some help with. I did a 'pull the trigger' order on this. I had been communicating with a local (great reviews) 'VW workshop', about possibly getting it in to the guy if the pertronix bits and carb didn't resolve the issue. I had it penciled in with him, had ordered the pertronix parts, but not the carb. I was on the last day of a holiday with my wife, checked out the hotel, sitting in the foyer, and the good lady was waiting for us to embark on our last day out before heading home. So, after a good search around all the normal interweb providers, and seeing, 'Not Available', or 'On Back Order',... I pulled the trigger on one from CSP:


Anyway, the Pertronix bits arrived first and were fitted. Test drive, hey presto misfire solved! BUT, timing wise it was a nightmare, I could either get it to 'start on the button', run relatively smoothly, but not tick over at all, and Idle adjustments on the carb had no beneficial impact on this. Or be an absolutely so and so to start, but tick over ok and still run quite smooth. Timing-choke combination setting minor tweaks to get this.
Either way, we could drive and drive and drive again, and no misfires. But it kind of always felt like you were driving through treacle. FYI, I settled for pain to start, but tick over at stops etc. Work around, choke being over advanced was to (when starting it) notch the choke back a couple of steps on the carb throttle cam, and no throttle. Turn the key, let it splutter to life, then feather the throttle for the first 30 or so.
Anyway the carb eventually turned up. On it went.
Out for a test drive, and holy smoke, everything was as above, same start up characteristics etc., but 'perky...' Horaay. No feeling of driving through treacle.
So, as it still had the starting issues (again, with the new carb managed by over advancing the choke). Was hopeful I could take it to the guy (VW workshop I mentioned), he could set the choke correctly, do a better job of dialling the timing in than me, and the chase out any problem that may then become evident.
I now have it back. Yep, starts great, ticks over great, kind of runs ok, but now again feels like you're driving through treacle, and now has an annoying intermittent carb like misfire. Generally under load, look revs, in 2nd/3rd gear, when you put your foot down a bit.
Tons of reading last night (here & Samba etc., and yes I know I pulled the trigger on the carb way too hastily) and one of the obvious first places I should have looked at is jetting the carb correctly. Trouble now is, this carb from CSP has literally zero markings on it. Nothing. So, thinking "well CSP must be a good product, not a cheap foreign thing I want to steer clear of...", and it obviously indicates I might have well got what I didn't want, some kind of less desirable replica :oops:.
I read great posts on here, talking /advising of making sure to install the correct main, idle, air correction, aux jet sizes for various PICT30's (1, 2, 3s), but it seems these vary depending on engine number and carb revision number combinations. I definitely don't have the latter on this carb. So, how best to proceed? I'm up for getting a few different size main jets, say 110 to 125, in steps of 2.5, start at 112.5 and 'walk around' that start point. My concern is, these jets obviously work in combination. So, e.g. I could start with the air correction at 170 and do similar,. But, the thought of mixing through the possible permutations and combinations, and threading a path through that seems a little challenging. I'm concerned I could lead myself up all arrays of 'garden paths', and I'm really not warning to ruin the engine by running it too rich/lean, over heating, screwing valve seats etc. I'm getting to the point of f-it, just go get a really good quality, turn-key, larger capacity engine, but don't really want to go down that route yet. 1. the cost, 2. Seems prematurely defeatist.

Phew, flip-me, I got there. If you're still reading, thank you. One final word I promise, Help!?

Cheers.
 
#2 ·
Sorry, but I skimmed over a lot of your post. I’ll cut to the chase. A 1200 will never run properly on a 009. They are shit. The correct distributor is a vacuum only one and that’s what you need. All the other fannying around with this carb and that will not overcome this problem. That’s because it’s a wee engine and it needs the instant signal it gets from the vacuum to give the advance. I have a 70s 1200. And I can get the part number off it if you like. Then you can start to track down and original distributor. The Chinese svda distributor won’t help you either as it needs the correct amount of vacuum from the carb.
 
#3 ·
#5 ·
#6 ·
It’s a 60s dizzy but according to samba was used on bugs so should be very similar to later one.
 
#7 ·
Thanks for all your input to this. Been trying to keep reading since. There certainly appear to be a heck of a lot of slightly different SVDA type bosch units out there, all with the same number (or starting 113) but a different letter on the end. Then there's some who lean heavily toward it being matched to specific carbs etc.

Your Samba link is a great help, also found this, not quite as detailed:


And dizzy wise, found this

and this

But they're a heck of a lot of coin to drop on a test.

The only issue I have with building from bits is not wanting to through money at something and waste the money, or keep chasing one sub-component around and around (if that makes sense). Happy to invest the right money in the right parts, just trying to stop the bit here, bin it off, bit there, bin it off type of approach. lol.

Then, the engineer in me looks at something like this and likes the tenability of it (advance curve wise), is that totally stupid idea? (I'm not thinking of it optimally for the 1200, though need it for that in the short term, more swapping to the bigger capacity i want to build next year.


FYI, going by this the engine was some time between Aug 75 and Aug 76
 
#11 ·
The 123 is a tasty bit of kit, but it’s still a svda so would need to set it up to get the advance curve to suit a 1200. The off the shelf svda needs the 34 pict carb to give the correct vac but that won’t fit on your manifold and is too big.
 
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#13 ·
yeah, that's what I'm flipping the coin on at the moment, one vs. the other. The Bosch would probably be optimal for the 1200 for the year. But then, when I go over to a 1641 or 1776 (haven't decided that answer yet, and don't need to), I imagine the 123 would be a good choice. So, query (to myself as much as anything), is can the 1213 do a decent job for now on the 1200 then not be 'lost' money later... ponder, ponder
 
#14 ·
A few weeks ago I was helping a local club member cause his stock 1600 engine wasn’t running right. Switching the 009 for a vacuum distributor transformed the way it drove. I was surprised by the difference it made. Because it was a 1600 we used a new svda. The advance curve is crucial to getting a smooth running engine. You can get away with a 009 on a big engine say 1776 or bigger but everything else needs the right advance to run well.
if you fit a 1641 later you could just fit a cheap Chinese svda, and with the 1776 reuse your 009. A lot will depend on choice of carb/s. With twin Weber ict carbs you can get a decent vacuum signal from them for a svda
 
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#16 ·
A few weeks ago I was helping a local club member cause his stock 1600 engine wasn’t running right. Switching the 009 for a vacuum distributor transformed the way it drove. I was surprised by the difference it made. Because it was a 1600 we used a new svda. The advance curve is crucial to getting a smooth running engine. You can get away with a 009 on a big engine say 1776 or bigger but everything else needs the right advance to run well.
Thank you so much for all your input. Really appreciated, I'm going to go off and cut the hedge (get in my head) but you're definitely leaning me towards that french stock of the Bosch units. Again thanks.
 
#17 ·
That’s a great link and now bookmarked. If you’ve got plenty of time on your hands you might to compare and contrast the data in it with the instructions for 123 distributors, which lists the various compatible Bosch part numbers for the switchable advance curves the distributor offers!
I don’t see the 1200 listed but it’s a faff checking it on the phone.
 
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#18 ·
Thank you, I went through the link and unfortunately it doesn't list the 111 905 205aa/0 231 137 039

However, on the final page it does say it is suitable for 1200's, e.g.:

Type 1/1200, Engine numbers: 5000001 up; D0095050 up

Stating to load Curve 0 for that.

But then I carried on studying. I moved on to the bluetooth full tuneable (the USB one has preset loadable curves, the bluetooth you can define your own).


Again, doesn't say it covers the 0 231 137 039, but says you can build custom curves with up to 10 points. So, I'm thinking, if I can find the curve for the 111 905 205aa/0 231 137 039 then maybe e it's possible, and it's a very nice bit of kit.

So, can find this
Image

from a great Samba link

But not yet for the 111 905 205AA. I'll keep trying.

Bu then I came across this


Where Bada Ben indicates a SVDA might be applicable (my engine number is: D01382785)

I too have a 74 1200 Beetle, it still has the stock Single vacuum distributor it came out of the factory with. When set-up correctly, it runs like a sewing machine.
After June 1974, these engines came with a SVDA type distributor with both Vacuum and mechanical advance (Engine numbers higher than D1268063), just a bit more tricky to set-up.
...
So, now I'm pausing, and trying to do a bit more searching. I was thinking to try and pm Bada Ben, to ask if he recalls the source of that information. Because if that's the case then it appears a SVDA may be one option, but it would then be: ok, which one? Or, which curve(s)...

I'll not be hasty on this one, but I'd love to get the old boy running some sense again. Don't even want to drive it at the moment for risk of inadvertent damage to other parts.
 
#23 · (Edited)
Thank you, I went through the link and unfortunately it doesn't list the 111 905 205aa/0 231 137 039

However, on the final page it does say it is suitable for 1200's, e.g.:

Type 1/1200, Engine numbers: 5000001 up; D0095050 up

Stating to load Curve 0 for that.

But then I carried on studying. I moved on to the bluetooth full tuneable (the USB one has preset loadable curves, the bluetooth you can define your own).


Again, doesn't say it covers the 0 231 137 039, but says you can build custom curves with up to 10 points. So, I'm thinking, if I can find the curve for the 111 905 205aa/0 231 137 039 then maybe e it's possible, and it's a very nice bit of kit.

So, can find this
View attachment 300430
from a great Samba link

But not yet for the 111 905 205AA. I'll keep trying.

Bu then I came across this


Where Bada Ben indicates a SVDA might be applicable (my engine number is: D01382785)



So, now I'm pausing, and trying to do a bit more searching. I was thinking to try and pm Bada Ben, to ask if he recalls the source of that information. Because if that's the case then it appears a SVDA may be one option, but it would then be: ok, which one? Or, which curve(s)...

I'll not be hasty on this one, but I'd love to get the old boy running some sense again. Don't even want to drive it at the moment for risk of inadvertent damage to other parts.
My source for the Distributor type on 1200 after June 1974 was the Haynes manual for 1200 1954 to 1977. in the "Supplement for later models" it states from June 74 the distributor has Vacuum and Centrifugal Advance. The carb for the same year is listed as 30 PICT 3 with same spec as both earlier and later versions except a 50 Pilot jet.
As keekster64 said : " It’s all about the combination of components. You need the right carb with the right distributor "
I'm not 100% sure if this is a 'Hard & Fast" rule, but usually the carbs which can correctly operate a SVDA distributor have a vacuum connection with a very small bore, (like a pinhole). I've seen early Carbs which operate a Vacuum only advance mechanism with a larger bore vac connection. It depends on the internal drillings for the vacuum signal, and the position of the vacuum port inside the venturi. However, the earliest carb I have to check is from 1968, and that too has the pinhole vac connection.
My 1200 Basic was registered September 74, but the engine was manufactured just before June 1974, (No. D01256---), it has the original Vac only distributor and original 30 PICT 3 carb with the pinhole bore vac connection.:
Image

I've never tried a SVDA with this carb, (never needed to).
I compared this to my 1972 stock 1600 (AD) engine which runs a Bosch SVDA, and it has the same pinhole vac connection on it's 34 PICT 3 carb, (BOCAR Replacement) :
Image

Both these engines run well with their different combinations of carb/distributor.
Hope that helps.
 
#19 ·
It’s all about the combination of components. You need the right carb with the right distributor. I’m not sure what carb those late 1200 engines have. My engine is total stock and runs sweet as a nut. Your best bet is to fit the correct dizzy with your original carb, which should sort it out. It’s guesswork what the aftermarket 30/31 carb has in terms of vacuum and whether it would work with a svda. It might but it might not. I picked up a spare svda the other day for £20 off eBay. One of my other mates the other day had a problem with his engine (ended up condenser was shot but he didn’t have a spare), so I brought the spare dizzy so we could get it running. Worked a treat. Not bad for £20😁
 
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#20 ·
Agree on the carb. I've just emailed CSP in the last hour, to ask for some more insight. Possibly won't be able to shed a lot of light on that, so possibly considering sourcing something carb wise more definable from the outset (then just list that CSP one on eBay at 99p starting and take my changes at minimising the loss).

I'd go for a new Brosol 30/31 (or better) If I could find one in stock, but everywhere (the usual web sites) are listing out of stock in the UK. Few around in the US.

Cool Air do have this

or there's these on eBay at the moment



I like the fact the last one's actually Solex/VW. Maybe I'm a bit paranoid, I'm just worried I don't know what I'm getting secondhand, but then new's not doing me too many favours at the moment.

As you say, If I've certainty on the carb then I can get certainty on the direction for the dizzy.

Cheers
 
#21 ·
#22 ·
My stock carb is a 30 pict 3. The worse wear point on a stock carb is the throttle spindle. You can get them machined and rebushed though if needed. The only other issue is if the carb has sat for years and corroded up inside one of the passages, which is a pain to sort. In theory any 30 pict carb should have the correct vacuum signal for the stock distributor, but a genuine one would be best.
 
#25 ·
Guy's, thank you very much. I'll most probably go for the eBay 30 pict3, given all these insights. Then sort the Dizzy, whether SVSA or SVDA. If the latter, probably a 113-905-205T, as

states
"A 113-905-205T from a 71 or newer Beetle should work with a 30 PICT-3 Carb",

Dizzy wise, there's a nice one here, but I haven't checked out eBay yet:

However, I'm also drawn by the point in your most recent provided link keekster64, where R&D state the SVSA has 3˚ less advance for cylinder 3, to mitigate the oil cooler-air flow issue common with the non-dog house shrouds.

And Badda Ben, thank you v much for identifying your reference. When I read that I was quite embarrassed. How we forget the obvious sources we all readily used to use before the internet. I hang my head in shame, lol.

Image
 
#28 ·
So, if I go for this carb
VW CLASSIC BEETLE + T2 BUS VAN SOLEX 30 PICT 3 CARB CARBURETTOR 1300,1500,1600cc | eBay
(seems to be right, and has the pinhole type vacuum)
Would you have any preference over the AA
Bosch ignition switch for VW Beetle & Camper 67 ->70
or the T
Restored Distributor

or are they much the same in your opinion?

Sorry, if this is getting annoying, just wanting to go the best route before investing more hard earned money (but more than happy to for the right thing). Again, thank you.
 
#29 ·
Well, my Pre- June 1974, (No. D01256---), has the original Vac only distributor 111 905 205 AA, (Bosch JUR 4 0 231137 039), and it works well with the original SOLEX 30 PICT 3 carb with the pinhole bore vac connection.
In my 1969 version of the VW dealer workshop manual, the 111 905 205 T is listed as an acceptable Replacement for many other versions of the stock Vac only distributor on 1200 - 1500 engines.
Hope that helps.
 
#32 ·
I wouldn't recommend a Brosol or an empi! JIMHO. I may have my old 30 from my 72 1200 somewhere im unlikely to use again so may sell. Condition unknown but was off my old running engine. However I know a guy who referbs carbs and sure he could sort you a genuine solex if not mine.
The symptoms you describe sounds like it's leaning out if popping back through the carb and your timing
/valves are set correctly. Something modern garbage carbs seem to do by my recent experiences with them.
(I've yet to try this but told a bigger squirt from the carb pump and rich setup may help bridge the 009 'flat spot'. I'm going to try it soon so will test the theory! Lol)