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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a spare 1300 engine with no end float that I would like to rebuild.I have been told that I should do a compression test first rather than spend lots on rebuilding it only to find it has poor compression.What does this involve?
Also it is a twin hot spot.Does this only refer to the manifold/exhaust.Should I be able to rebuild the engine with a progressive weber and suitable manifold that does away with the twin hotspot manifold.I know you are limited to very little choice in exhausts with a hotspot hence wanting to change it.Jase
 

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... I should do a compression test first rather than spend lots on rebuilding it only to find it has poor compression.What does this involve?
You need a compression tester, which is a gauge with a rubber seal, goes into a spark plug hole. Should find one at most good accessory shops, or even Halfords. Ideally try to find one (if they exist) that you can use on a VW engine in-situ.

You need to be able to spin the engine over on the starter, so you will need a battery and enough wiring to do so, with a starter button or similar you can reach. You won't need any ignition or fuel components, but will need some oil in the engine.

Take the plugs out, put tester into each cylinder in turn, hold it firm, turn engine over on starter, note the reading. It's about twenty years since I last used mine, so read the instructions on the tin first in case I've forgotten anything vital!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Cheers mate.I'll see if one of my local dubbers has a tester I can borrow.The engine is still in my project bug so easy to do. Jase
 

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buy lend a tester (there pretty cheap ) unscrew spark plugs , some say take em all out some do one at a time, screw tester into hole , o yeh take the dizzy off dont want any sparks , get some one to turn it over while you watch the tester , when the needle stops moving thats youre reading for that cylinder , make a note , what youre looking for is an even spred , the readings may be down on an old engine (good reading is 90 psi plus i think ) but if there all around the same then theres not much wrong with the heads , as for the webber manifold ,do you mean the pre heater pipes ? im running a scat one which is the same , you dont need to use em , if your mannifolds hasnt got the pipes then just blank off the joint on the exhaust , if the exhaust hasnt got the joint then thats no problem , your mannifold wont get any warm air and it maybe a pig in cold weather ive had no problems , hope this helps im no expert
 

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I think you'd be better off using a leakdown tester as it will tell you not only how much leakage but where it's leaking from plus you don't have to spin the motor.
 

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Paul VSM said:
I think you'd be better off using a leakdown tester ...
Leakdowns are very cool, but then you need a compressor and the actual tester, which if I recall correctly aren't too cheap.
 
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