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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just bought a front suspension set up made by Ravern Hydraulics.

This was initially made for a beetle though I hope to be able to adapt it to fit my '65 split that I have a home narrowed front beam on, bay ball joints and disc brakes fitted.

The system is a straight up and down, I don't intend to have it jumping up and down, leaping side to side. (This is a good site for this though! www.unitylowriderforum.co.uk)

Having had a think, and a read up, I will probably opt for a larger or secondary accumulator to give the front a bit more cushioning as it is on a van now and was apparently a hard ride on a beetle.

My thoughts are that I would lower the front using the adjusters to just past the point I want the ride height to be. I will then fit the rams and power them up to lift it to my drive height.

This way the rams are acting as an assistant to the springs and taking some of the bumps and stresses along with the springs. When I come to a kerb/speed bump etc I can increase the pressure and lift up the front, drive over and lower again. When I park up and want to show off I can dump pressure and leave it sat right on the torsion springs.

From speaking to people, and reading up it is suggested that I either remove the torsion springs or take out the grub screw on the adjuster. I don't understand why this though....?

The guy it got it from has done a few hydraulic conversions, and knows what he is talking about (thanks simon) though I wondered if there was another opinion or if it had been tried another/ this way?

.....Nick
 

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From speaking to people, and reading up it is suggested that I either remove the torsion springs or take out the grub screw on the adjuster. I don't understand why this though...?
You cant just remove the torsion leaves cos the trailing arms bolt on them...you would need to use something similar to a red9design lowering kit that does away with the leaves , but uses a long metal bar with bolts on either end to hold the trailing arms on.

..taking the bolt out on the adjuster would allow the leaves to move round "freely" because they wouldnt be "locked" in place by the bolt.... if your trying to raise or lower the vehicle with the bolt in, your putting alot of stress on the shocks / airbags etc + the leaves aswell , theyd all be fighting against each other
 

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yeah take the grub screws right out.... thats 'safe'.


do a few searches matey, air ride IS fucking technically, mechanically, electrically and hydraulically etc...

there's loads of websites out there...


possibly look into how Creative do it with there air bag beam?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
(Thanks for your PM Joe Skidds)

My option was i think the one that you said was safer and more expensive. I dont like the idea of relying on just two rams. A sheared bolt/burst pipe/leaky accumulator and it would all be over. It also seems a lot to ask as well for the rams. I have lowered already, using creative adjusters. I was going to leave these in, lower my ride down to the lowest i want then raise up on the rams. Bit like the citroen motors used to run. That way the springs will still work ( i think) but they will be assisted by the rams and fooled into thing the bus is really light.
When i narrowed my beam i i welded on some brackets for bump stops. I havent made up the bump stops until i know how low i will be. I m going to fit these to catch the front if all else fails.

The back.............

The juice thing is another example of why i have been doing the bus for the past three years. I bought the rams, pump, motor, accumulator all second hand. it only has two rams, and was fitted to a beetle. I was going to chop the tops off and weld on some brackets for void bushes for the front of the van though am wondering putting these onto the back of my van and getting two more for the front.

This would be the ideal sceneario as i could then lift her up over speed bumps etc. I have turboed the engine and gained various bits underneath that i would prefer not to knock off!

I dont want to lift the front independant to the back but raise both ends up equally. not sure if i could do this though without some sort of balencer/valve as although vans were designed to be balenced would one end come up before or more than the other?
Have you any experience of this?

Thanks for your time

Nick[/QUOTE]
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
yeah take the grub screws right out.... thats 'safe'.

do a few searches matey, air ride IS fucking technically, mechanically, electrically and hydraulically etc...

there's loads of websites out there...

possibly look into how Creative do it with there air bag beam?
How can that be safe, what if you loose the pressure?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You cant just remove the torsion leaves cos the trailing arms bolt on them...you would need to use something similar to a red9design lowering kit that does away with the leaves , but uses a long metal bar with bolts on either end to hold the trailing arms on.

..taking the bolt out on the adjuster would allow the leaves to move round "freely" because they wouldnt be "locked" in place by the bolt.... if your trying to raise or lower the vehicle with the bolt in, your putting alot of stress on the shocks / airbags etc + the leaves aswell , theyd all be fighting against each other
Cheers Glenn, I didnt actually mean remove the springs completely as it would leave the trailing arms a bit loose! Your point about putting extra stress on by leaving the grubs in is what i dont understand. I have lowered it on adjusters and the rams will take part of the weight from the springs, therefore lifting the front up. Similar to taking a heavy load out of the front. How does this put stress on it? am i being dull.....?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
.............if i put a ram one each corner and pipe them up with T pieces will this lift the lightest end to its maximum lift, the lift the other end rather than lifting uniformly?
 

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The hydraulic fluid will go where there is least resistance. So you could have a problem where the van won't sit level. It will be better to wire it so the front and back run off independant switchs.

What parts do you have in the hydraulic system???
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The hydraulic fluid will go where there is least resistance. So you could have a problem where the van won't sit level. It will be better to wire it so the front and back run off independant switchs.

What parts do you have in the hydraulic system???
I suspected so, think it i did some calculation about something similar at college that must be at least 100 years ago now.

I have the motor with the built in pump and single solenoid within and one output. Ie it will either lift or dump.
thanks
 

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there is a thread somewhere where a guy has made a beam, or adapted a stock one, to use hydraulic rams/shocks/whatever you call them, in a similar way to the way the airbags are used on a creative beam

ill see if i can dig it out for you, but at the moment i cant for the life of me remember where i saw it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
there is a thread somewhere where a guy has made a beam, or adapted a stock one, to use hydraulic rams/shocks/whatever you call them, in a similar way to the way the airbags are used on a creative beam

ill see if i can dig it out for you, but at the moment i cant for the life of me remember where i saw it!
Sounds interesting......
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I suspected so, think it i did some calculation about something similar at college that must be at least 100 years ago now.

I have the motor with the built in pump and single solenoid within and one output. Ie it will either lift or dump.
thanks
....What do you think then Joe.skidds?????????:cool:
 

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Hi mate

How did you get on with this???

Just found this thread after doing some searching for Hydraulic set ups. Should be getting mine sorted this year.
 

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Ive been running a juice 68 T1 for 15 years! So have alot of experience on low riders and hydraulic suspension. Most of the hydraulic systems are rated for industrial use so running a T1 or T2 is unlikely to make any different.

I would highly recommend you leave the existing suspension as is and simply use the hydraulic rams to raise the vehicle from the current (assumed lowered position).

You'll probably find the t1 accumulators will be fine as the ride is better than a lowered vehicle because the suspension travel is still the same, or greater.

If you are going to lower the vehicle dont take it too low incase the system fails you dont want to ride too far on the bump stops (I did 30miles once and my teeth nearly fell out!)

These days the air ride systems are taking over as they are cheaper, less messy than juice and can run in parallel to a more advanced suspension setup e.g. coilovers. However in my opinion nothing beats the power of a high voltage juiced vehicle.
 
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