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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i been wondering how many people use this stuff, a product which is much raved about but im trying to find some clear defined evidence of how good it is.

so who has it on their dub, how longs it been on there & in the car a daily driver through the winter months too?

if its been on there for a few years how is it fairing? peeling off? still as shiny and clean as the day you put it on?

:)
 

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There are loads of threads on the tech forum about POR-15. Do a search and i'm sure you will find the answers you are looking for.;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
There are loads of threads on the tech forum about POR-15. Do a search and i'm sure you will find the answers you are looking for.;)
the problem is the techy forum never seems to yeild the normal peoples results ;)

im looking for the real life usage from non technical people, that and alast time i asked in the technical forum no one could actually tell me how long they had it on their car!
 

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I'm still repairing my bug, but I've put POR-15 on my inner wings, straight after I repaired them. And on the heater channels etc.
Some of the repairs are 2 years old, they still look like new, and that's without any paint on yet.
It really is brilliant stuff.
I'll be bunging plenty more on soon!!:D
 

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Three years old on mine with 20,000 miles on it. Bare metal, full por-15 job and then black waxolye. Gets driven all the time, all weathers, no tlc. No issues what-so-ever with rust.

Only problem i had was on the suspension components. Did the por 15 on them and then over coated them with hammerite. Hammerite didn't bond and flaked off in places. Por-15 is sound though. Given up with hammerite, total shit.
 

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I've used POR-15 for years. I coat the inside of new chassis sections and heater channels before they're closed up when I weld both mine and customers' cars.

I've used it on floorpans, and even on front beams. One car I have, the beam was POR-15'd four years ago and has been A-framed six times and the paint hasn't chipped at all and is still as good as when it was first painted on.

When you paint it on, you need to ensure there is a key for the paint to adhere to, or it will eventually flake off. Using a scotchbrite is normally enough to key the paint. However, I prefer painting POR-15 onto freshly blasted metal as it sticks to it like glue and fills in the roughness of the blasted metal giving a really nice smooth finish.
 

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I've used POR-15 for years. I coat the inside of new chassis sections and heater channels before they're closed up when I weld both mine and customers' cars.

I've used it on floorpans, and even on front beams. One car I have, the beam was POR-15'd four years ago and has been A-framed six times and the paint hasn't chipped at all and is still as good as when it was first painted on.

When you paint it on, you need to ensure there is a key for the paint to adhere to, or it will eventually flake off. Using a scotchbrite is normally enough to key the paint. However, I prefer painting POR-15 onto freshly blasted metal as it sticks to it like glue and fills in the roughness of the blasted metal giving a really nice smooth finish.
Thats good advice, thanks. Will be doing all of that :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
see this is the good useful information i wanted to see and here first hand, my chassis for my other car is currently sat in red oxide primer under the shell under a sheet and when i get back on the project i think por15 will be there choice, if it lasts britains roads for 4-5 years then thats the sort of proof im after :)

dont think i can really sand blast my chassis so may have my work cut out with the scotchbrite wheel :eek:
 

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Didn't blast mine. Used a decent stripping wire wheel from Frosts. Used metal ready to desolve all the shite and prep the metal, then painted. Used a hot air gun to make sure the metal was dry after washing. With POR15, its really important to follow all the instructions. Paint onto bare metal, or your new paint is only as good as the paint underneath it.
 
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