Volkszone Forum banner
1 - 20 of 262 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,364 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
And here's what you have to do to get non 1200 exhausts and rear tinware to fit properly.





Hopefully you can see in the exhaust pictures the welds I made to shorten the muffler and align the peashooters. Wasn't happy as the guy who sold it said it was for a 1200 and so I paid 1200 money for a 1300/1600 exhaust. Bastard!!!!

The tinware was a ballache but easier than trying to source a correct 1200 item over here.

Also, not happy with the TRW brand new steering box as even after adjusting there is play and yet it's now a bit notchy around the centre point. And that was $300 of box :mad:

Ah well, trying to find sound deadener for the floor at present whilst also correcting the door gaps. Passenger needs the hinges drilling off and new ones putting on if I can't straighten them, tho they grind a fair bit from being bent so may just get new ones ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,364 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Is it just me or do new expensive parts suck balls? New $300 TRW steering box that even after adjusting has 10-15mm steering wheel play on the right steering yet no play in the left steering side of dead centre. What a load of balls :mad:

On the plus side I have 3.46sq metres of RAAMmat sound deadener to go in once I've washed the floors down.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,364 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hey, Look what turned up today



Yup, 3.46sq metres of RAAMmat sound deadener. So over the next few days I shall bore everyone with yet another floorpan being cleaned and covered in sound deadener.

Nah, go on. You know you all love some floorpan porn :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,364 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So sprayed up around the rear side window and the door cards to check the look of the interior colour scheme.




One with flash and one without. What do people think?

Blue is just a generic dark blue enamel that should close-ish match a blue for the current VW range of colours :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,364 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Managed to get a bit closer to re-painting the floorpan ready for the sound deadener.

Here we are sanded ready for the first coat.



And been figuring out the passenger door hinges. Had bent the door skin nicely, pushed the upper inner strengthener backwards and fully buggered the hinges. Oh and started to rip 3 of the upper rivets thru the door skin.





Drivers door needs OS hinge pins as got an 8mm drop from the 0.5mm pin wear.

Glad to be getting something done tho as no job and low cash flow makes it hard going. Plus I find Brisbane such a boring little town and yearn for the better social aspect of the UK.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,364 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Floorpan sound deadening is finally in :D



floorpan repainted. Not totally happy as did have some micro bubble issues so not a totally smooth paint job :( But the deadener will cover it now as can't be arsed to do it again.



RAAMmat installed.

So get the doors fixed up with new hinges and then find some form of epoxy mastic to paint the rest of the interior in so I don't have anymore micro bubble issues.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,364 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So last of my free funds have gone on new door hinges and pins for the old girl but having to fix the mess the PO did to the door hinges and pillar. No pillar shots yet but here's the state of the door hinge areas







You can see in the removed metal that the hinge retaining rivets have halfway pulled thru the outer door skin. Might extend the repair panel depending on peoples thoughts on strength of the current repair section.

Hopefully I have enough gas left, don't really need a whole new bottle :rolleyes:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,364 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
So as I've been having a such a ballache sourcing hinges, pins and tooling in Australia to get my doors back on the Bug I decided to clean up the rear seat frame and give it a lick of rust proof paint. Oz hammerite basically.

Before


After


As for the doors I need funds for welding gas as the rivet holes need a bit of welding and machining to make them round again otherwise the door will probably sag and move around quite quickly once back on the car.

Really quite peeved as if in the UK I would have had the parts and tools within a week but over here it's taken almost 6 weeks and I now have to find a 60 degree 12mm centre drill so the new lower hinge can accept an early domed pin :rolleyes:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,364 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
So made a bit of progress with the doors n hinges as got bored of not doing anything due to a bum elbow :rolleyes:

Whilst trying to sort out the mess the PO had made of the hinges I've ended up having to remove the upper strengthening plate from both doors. This shows the number of spot welds I had to drill out


This shows how the strengthening plate had been bent around and the river holes pulled into peaks instead of being flat.


This is a little holder for a piece of 5mm rubber to hold the old skool check strap in place. New rubber needed as old stuff is 50yrs old and buggered.



And dunno if you can make how that the rivet holes are a bit ovalled and enlarged to need welding and filing round again.


Also got me 60 degree countersink so I could get the new lower hinge to accept an early pin. Can now go and get a garage to press the pins fully in :D Yay me!!!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,364 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Cheers dude :)

It's a lot of work to fix another owners mistake but the doors are totally straight with no rust so not much point trying to find a pair of totally straight, rust free 1959 doors to replace these ones.

Also, made a list of all the welding that I can think needs doing so I can have everything ready to steam thru the welding so BOC only get a months rental from me :D :lol:
 
1 - 20 of 262 Posts
Top