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Discussion Starter · #1 ·


ive been meaning to do a full write up of the beast all summer, just been really busy with it tho, thought its about time i did it!!

ill be updating this gradually over the next few weeks, writing in detail how i took this £600 wreck of a 1968 vw (conveted) pannel van, into the MOT'd daily which it now is! ill start by putting the pics up of how i got it on 8th of may eailer this year,



as you can see it looked alright,
the major problmes with it were that it wouldnt start, alothough it did run, and it needed *abit* of welding, just for the mot it needed

2x tubs (or repair sections to the orgianl ones)
2x front wings (old ones had been made out of fibreglass, expandable foam with wodern inserts...)
1x front pannel inner
1x early pannel outer.

i bought it with the idea of just getting it running, let it fail its MOT, fix anything what needed doing to it to pass the MOT, then sell on... well that kinda changed....

so after messing about with numerous starter motors and jumper leads directly on to the battry etc, i put a brand new starter on, only to find that didnt work too! in the end fitting a new bush in the bellhousing cured that!!
i changed all 4 CV joints and one steel brake line on the rear right hand side. It also had a bit of fly wheel oil seal leak to so i pulled the engine swaped the seal, stuck the a starter moter bush in there and it fired the engine up fine... only for it to littrally piss oil out of the flywheel oil seal this time, doh! anyway i took it to the MOT place and they failed it on a fair few things

cant actually find the first MOT failure sheet i had for it but it needed all the above welding and one or two more hard line brake lines, and i think 1 wheel bearing. not so bad eh!

O yeah, ive also been meaning to do a price list for all the bits to work out how much ive spent in the 3/4months it took me to make it! so that liitle bit at the bottom is for me, as it'll remind me of the work done and the parts costs too!!!eeeek!

So,
van, £600
1st MOT, £40
starter motor, £47.50
flywheel oil seal, £2
repair pannels; front lower outer pannel£32, front inner pannel £28, front wheel arches 2x £48.50.
brake line kit £13
CV boots 4x £2.75
wheel bearings £8
all the above parts are bought from GSF so they are +VAT,
total....

£917.03.

more updates in abit...
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
So i let it fail on all the above, these were the *repairs to the tubs which had been done by the owner before i bought it of paul, bluecab off here,





as you can see the repairs were made from a diversion road sign...

now this is when it all changed..... my new idea was to make it low as possible, and convert it back into a pannel van on the basis if i can get a orgianl RHS pannel sliding door, which i bought a all types for £150!!

So, while the front arches and tubs were out for the new ones to be put in, i thought that it would make it 1000% easier to do all this lowering work whith the arches, tubs and cab floor sections etc out the way....



Now i thought since i want it low, i want it too look good too, so i decided to start sticking my screw driver in arears which looked abit dodgy, so in the end the pannels which were needed as are follows... 2x rear wheel arches, 1x rear hatch, 1x engine lid, 1x pannel sliding door, inner rear wheel arc sections both sides front and rear, both cab floor sections and one front top pannel ie lower windscreen section, batty tray, 2x cab doors, 2x custom made lower A piller arch repair pannels..

So as i was doing all this work on my van outside on my drive it really was a sight, as my van was on axel stands for abot 8weeks!!

as i wanted it low, the first job was to rmove the beam, then rasie it to be flush with the bottom of the floor, as this is a non work thu it was possible to rasie it a good 1.5 inch.



next as i now changed to use a splitty King and linp pin front beam, i moved on to the back,

i knew it needed to be more than a 3 spline drop, with the rusty old wheel arches out the way i cut notches out of the chassis rail's and seam welded the bak up, so the drive shafts would miss the chassis rails.. i also compelatly cut off the bump stop casting bracket off the tosion bar housing, and the bracket off the chassis rail, at first it was a 5spline drop with the 195x65r15 tyres on my previously bought (for my 67 T1) BRM wheels, it was roughly the correct hight, ie 1" off the floor to the engine support brace bar.

the main problem with that was the wheels had about 5mm of clearance off the top of the tubs, at the time i didnt wat to touch the rear tubs, so i decided to go for 4x smart car tyres all round, 165x65r15. on the BRMs they are quite streched too, so in the end i changed it to a 4 spline drop becasue with a 5 spline drop on smart car tyres it nearly ground out!!

the spring plates needed a 10mm notch to clear the torsion housing ends, now it has allot of travel and handles amazing.




you can see in the pics the new rear wheel arch closing pannels both sides front and rear where done.



Now, i butted the reapr pannels up and tack welded them to the inner lips of the tubs....



thin skim of filler 0.5mm think at the most, well on all my repairs anyway!

parts prices this time are:
2x rust free (ish) front doors £30
1x RHS pannel slider rust free! £150
1x rust free rear hatch £35
1x early bay rear engine hatch lid £60
2x front cab floor sections £40
2x front, rear arch, closing pannels £16
2x rear, rear arch, closing pannels £13.62
1x front pannel top bulge repair section £46.81
1x battry tray £13.50
4x smart car tyres £129.88 (bough at trade price, cheers Ian!!)

the repair pannels were bought thu Scofields, so once again +VAT,=
£597.54
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
now you can see in the above pics that the previous owner had done rear corners, but insed of lapping them with a joggler ot butting them in, they decided to lap them over by about 1.5"! so that started to rot out, so i jad to repair them, and i knock a load of dents out that they had just fillered over!




on the left of the arch, you can see a minor repair where the arch meets the rear corner....

Anyway by this time i re panneled the bus, and as you can see in the pics did a shit hot job of it!!




thats rob, the big gay, not me ill be around later doing one of my gay poses too!!

now in the above two pics theres a load of rotten steel cut out around the the rear corners, where it meets the rear hatch and the decklid, this needed sections cutted out and new metal welding in, which was a bitch of a job, took well over two days of fabbing and welding to get it looking good!

Now on to the front!



front lower, outer and inner repair sections welded in,




you can see in this pic, witht he floor cut away, the cutom repairs to the lower A pillers, and the inner pannel welded in, also notice the raised steering box....

ive, got allot more pics of most of these areas, but they are on my old computer, ill sort that out ASAP,

now i didnt have to buy any thing other than sheet metal, as cutting discs, grinding discs, welding wire and gas are all consumables, i have the reicpts for most of my consumables, but if i just a a good 200quid onto the final price it'll be about right, with the leccy bill to like!!

more to come...
 

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oooh sexual bus ;-) lower than ya nan's tits............ sayin that alex, your nan's got more pert tits than yours.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
my gran's are deeeed mate. have been for a while, god rest there souls.... no serioulsy!
 

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guess i was wrong then eh? lol.

cant belive more people havent replied to this thread, as this is the lowest bay in the UK
 

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RobScottVW said:
cant belive more people havent replied to this thread, as this is the lowest bay in the UK
Guess a fair few must be trying to pick theirs jaws up of the floor. :D
Tis fooking low thats for sure.

Nice going alex1916v :hangloose
 

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I've said it before, and I'll say it again...

Nice:cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
moler said:
...not for long ;)
we'll see...... got some more plans for the winter!!!

anyway ive got a load more to write up one this.... just gonna do it a few days here and a few days there... i should have done it when it made it really!! ah well i was busy making my master peice!
 

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man, it will allways be the lowest, as on full adjust the chassis sits on the ground ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
yeah really it cant get any lower, they just be as low as each other....lol

on a serious not, i think a mild rear torsion bar, transmission and engine raise are on the cards, then i can have it as low as i want for the time being its grounding out eveywhere..... as its my daily.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
TonyM said:
You must be friendly with your local MOT Inspector ;)
yeah he's sound as fuck like, he has a pit do no dodgy raps to get on etc.... and end of the day its all adjustible so if i have to rasie it a dab for him then fair enough!!!
 

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aye, bob is sound, no dodgey stuff with him. if you can pass an MOT with bob then you know its spot on!
 
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