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Woo another orange '71 1200!!! Welcome to the club:D

There's gotta be like 3 or four of them in readers rides now? Ok, 1541's isn't a 1200 but what the hell. And Mines not orange anymore, but that's beside the point. Feel free to join the club anyways.


Looks nice BTW... Hope you enjoy it:D
 

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magicfiver said:
To replace this, and i know it's a case of chopping it back, just how far should i go back?

I need to replace the bottom of the door post too, but which bit do i replace first?
The heater channel or the door post bottom?
Is there an order to doing this?

Underneath the whole side of the channel is all gone too, and will need replacing.
Is there any kind of online tutorial for replacing all of this kinda thang?
I'd probably sort the channel first, although if it's rusted all along the bottom it might be easier to replace it with a whole fresh one, bottom bit and all.. Heater channels are not somtihng I've replaced tho, so can't realy give you any tips. If you do replace it it'll be good to leave most of the door pillar in place, so as to have a guide when positioning the new one. Then with the channel replaced, you can slot a new pillar bottom in (go to hookyspanelshop.com, his panels kick ass).

You'll need to cut back to full strength decent thickness clean metal with any welding repair, but as mentioned above it might be a lot easier to take the full length of the channel out and replace.

Anyways, heres a good link for channels etc...

http://www.superbeetles.com/welcome.htm

Click on tech, then tech talk with rick, and you'll find all manner of good stuff.. I used their tutorial to get the body off my bug, it helped no end.

EDIT: looking at your pics again, I'd say replace, defo, especialy if the botom is rotted out too. All IMHO naturaly:hangloose

DOUBLE EDIT: I may have been too hasty with the above edit.. If that's actualy all the rust there is, you could repair it fairly easily, and replace the bottom plate.. That said, you realy need to find out exactly how much rust there is on it. Go out and get brutal with a screwdriver:hangloose
 

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Ya, we're collecting the orange ones so they can be sprayed a less offensive colour:incheek::D


Don't be too scared by the tutorial btw, it'd be much easier with the body off.... There's a couple good threads on here too(do a quick search) regarding channel replacement.. Although I would never have tried somthing like that when I first got me bug, so I should probably shut up about it:D


If you do get the chanels done by someone else go along and watch them work, asuming they dont mind.. That'll give you a real good feel for metalworking on a car. It helped me no end when I got a local-ish guy to come weld up a few areas on my car when I first got it, I got my car fixed and got a free welding lesson thrown in with it:hangloose
 

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Gutted about your discovery...

In my limited experience with restorations, they're full of little 'lessons' like that.. I'm sure one day they'll stop, but I'm not holding my breath:D

Still, people keep telling me it'll all be worth it in the end... They better be right!!

May the force be with you:hangloose
 

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tofufi said:
I reckon you should ditch the US spec lights and go for uprights ;)
Me too;)

Nice progress they're making.. There's something quite special about clean metal, where once there was rust:hangloose
 

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magicfiver said:
oh, watch out kids, them there wings are sharp.
Woohoo, Blood!!!! It's about time!!

I know what you mean 'bout them being sharp, I picked up a nasty little slice off my repro floorpans when I picked them up from GSF:D

Looks like a lot of work's been done to the bug tho.. nice!!

You might be able to work the wings a little to get them to fit btw.. Apparently they can be wangled quite a bit to get them to line up and stuff. Wing beading will help a little too, and I'm asuming not all the bolts were used either, wich'll help a lot too. Unless they're realy blatantly incredibly not straight, in wich case it's new wings time!

Keep it up dude:hangloose
 

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Woh, cool... No time to reply propper, but lots of work your doing there:D

Nice looking job with the bumper hanger thingy!!
 

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Woah, my ears were burning:D

Nice to see more hacking, I've saved the page to read later... Looks like some good progress tho:hangloose
 

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Wow!! Illegal running boards!!

Just had to post on here as I've just finished watching all of seasons 1 through 4 of aqua teen hunger force, in part because your avatar reminded me I'd forgotten all about it:D


Ta!




*Enormous rant about projects getting perpetualy more and more involved in a vicious spiral of insanity deleted just prior to posting, as it made me look very bitter indeed.
 

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lee70airbug said:
I'm not sure if that's a confused HUH or just a general grunt of excitment, but check out he second to botom pic if it's the first one...
 

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Ohhh shits, that's not good. I was dreading sometihng like that when I took my beam off, thankfully I got lucky.... To be honest it'd probably be much easier to get a panel and cut the bit you need out of it tho, it's quite thick metal and will be a pain in the ass to fabricate, and it'll need to be prety much perfect so to be sure that the beam will be sitting where it should. Although having said that, anything's possible if you have the time and skills etc:hangloose

Have youchecked the same spot on the other side? I noticed in your 'solid framehead' pic the two sides both seemed to have a little crustiness going on!
 

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Shit... Sounds much worse than I thought.

I think you can get complete frameheads from heritage for about £60, and the hat section is about £25 IIRC, but you'd have to be very confidant with your welding, and probably make a jig to make sure your car's straight afterwards.. Not to mention the panels are most likely megashit IGP jobbies that'll need a bunch of tweaking. I don't want to get too negative on you, but personally, while I was fairly happy welding on my beam etc, I'd be proper scared about replacing a whole framehead.... Separating the panels and doing it bit by bit would be easier but I'm not sure if that's possible. Getting a pro to do it can't be cheap either.

One thing to consider is that a bug chassis with V5 but no shell is worth next to nothing, and you could easily get one, clean it up, maybe replace the pans, and plonk your body onto it... Hassle getting it to your drive, and it'll take up space, but new framehead or new chassis, you're still going to need the same amount of drive space when you factor in removing the shell for framehead replacement.

One way or the other a lot of time and money has gone into the shell and other bits, it'd be soul destroying to see it all go to waste:)
 

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Good to see it back on track.. Making nice progress too:hangloose

Carefull tho, I don't think new steering boxes come with steering arms, so you'll just have to re-use you'r old one which is causing the trouble anyhows.. make shure you check anyways if you do get one.

I think (again I might be wrong) that you can just take your tie rod ends off and stick them on your new tie rods so they'll fit. Or just get new ones even. Wouldn't cost £60!
 

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Shit I've just realised that I've no idea which size the tie rod ends on my narrowed tie rods are!! Touch wood, but I got a sinking feeling they'll be wrong...
 

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Haha yeah, mine did that too, new bushes adn it worked just long enough for me to think I'd fixed it propper:D

2 years is a long time for an angle grinder tho, you got muchos life out of that sucker!!
 

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Nice.. it's good to stick things back together every now and again isn't it!! i've forgotten what my bug is going to look like, it's that long since I done it:D
 
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