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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So my beetle has been in bits for much longer than I would care to admit, but I’m hoping to get the body mounted back on the chassis over the Christmas break.

Trouble I is I can barely remember where all the bits are, let alone what order to put them back on!! Anyone know if it’s covered in any of the manuals or if some generous soul has compiled a checklist anywhere?
 

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Put the body on the chassis, and see if you can 1st get all the body/pan bolts to fit. Then lift it back off and glue/seal the pan seal to the pan, put more non setting sealant in the middle groove of the pan seal and refit body.
 

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Don't forget to fit the bakelite heater fittings to the rear crossmember panels before bolting the body to floorpan, you can't get to the heater tube bolts because the rear torsion bar tubes are in the way.
Yes and you maybe should wait to put them on until when the pan is nearly there.
You only need about 20 cm gap between pan and body on the rear to put them in place.
You can even fit a pair of loose bolt at the front to keep everything lined up, before fitting the Bakelite tubes and lowering the rear the last bit.

As I did mine alone, and as the talented fool I am, I managed to smash both of mine.
Forgetting they were there and my support lumber rolled a little back creating an expensive crunching noise!

If I has to assemble a body and pan again.
I will lower the body to the pan.
Fit two loose bolts at the front.
Lift he rear of the body to clear the torsion tube.
Fit the Bakelite tubes and then lower the rear again.

But besides that.
Assemble as much as you can on the pan beforehand.
It is sooo much more easy to do when the body is not in the way.

Assembled mine the other day. Describing it in my tread in Readers Ride.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks all. Brake lines are run. Shift linkage and bush are in. Throttle and clutch cables are in.

A mate said the same thing to me about the Bakelite tubes so I’ll take DK Bug’s advice about those. So really once I’ve got the gearbox mounted I’m good to go? Maybe the pedal box too?
 

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Thanks all. Brake lines are run. Shift linkage and bush are in. Throttle and clutch cables are in.

A mate said the same thing to me about the Bakelite tubes so I’ll take DK Bug’s advice about those. So really once I’ve got the gearbox mounted I’m good to go? Maybe the pedal box too?
I left the pedals until after lowering the bodyshell, I just thought they may get in the way, but I ran all the cables through before.
 

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What sealant do you guys use please? Obviously needs to be something that doesn’t stick/set.
Although my 74 1200 originally had the sticky backed foam pan to body seal, I found it had perished and soaked-up water, causing extensive rust on the edges of the floorpan and heater channels.
With my new floorpans and heater channels I will be using the old style rubber pan seal with Sikaflex sealant, this does 'set', but remains flexible like a synthetic rubber, and sticks like 5h!t.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Although my 74 1200 originally had the sticky backed foam pan to body seal, I found it had perished and soaked-up water, causing extensive rust on the edges of the floorpan and heater channels.
With my new floorpans and heater channels I will be using the old style rubber pan seal with Sikaflex sealant, this does 'set', but remains flexible like a synthetic rubber, and sticks like 5h!t.
Thank you. Which Sikaflex? EBT?

And another question.... (sorry never done this before and I have far too much money in this car to fox it up now!!) did you cut holes in the seal before putting the body on?
 

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I didn’t cut holes in the rubber seal before mounting the body. It is fairly easy to punch holes with a screwdriver and fit the bolts.
I did that also because I had enlarged some of the holes in the pan so that the bolts could go in easy and if if I had cut holes I could end up with more hole than seal, in some places.


I also used sikaflex window sealer / glue to glue the seal to the pan, but be aware, even as if it sticks as shit to metal and glass, it does not glue well to plastic and rubber, but it can hold the seal in place until the body is on and that was enough for me.

If you want a strong bond between the rubber and the sealer you should use sikaflex for marine use, it sticks to rubber and plastik, I have used it to glue hatch frames on sea kayaks.
 

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Thank you. Which Sikaflex? EBT?
And another question.... (sorry never done this before and I have far too much money in this car to fox it up now!!) did you cut holes in the seal before putting the body on?
I've used the Sikaflex for caravans and motorhomes in the past, but there seem to be many more variations now. I would think any of the versions for Automotive or Marine use.
In theory, the original pointed bolts should pierce the rubber, so no need to cut holes, the rubber then tightly grips and seals the bolt threads too
 

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It is this product that does not adheres to rubber and plastic. Tried it and it failed.
Used it when I glued my seal to the pan.
After it has set I could easily pull the seal away and all the sikaflex sat nicely on the pan and none of it were on the rubber seal.
SikaTack® DRIVE (60 min)

I have used this marine version on kayaks, to glue ABS hatch frames to the deck.
Sikaflex®-291
 

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Vw fully built the chassis before fitting the body and I do the same. I glue the rubber seal to the pan using evostick and cut holes for all the bolts. I never use any sealer and I’ve not had any leaks. This will depend on how much welding it’s had and how well it’s done.
 
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