[maplesyrup]

Big Cam and Carbs for a stock crank (previously W120 now W110?) What heads with what valve sizes and springs do you have fitted? What distributor? Is the vacuum T’d to both carbs or just one? Have you sucked on the vacuum can and confirmed that it’s moving the advance plate in the distributor. Where’s you’re oil temperature sender fitted, could be heat soak and non temp related. What fuel pressure have you got? Could be fuel, could be ignition, could be lack of compression, I guess ignition 🤔

 

[maplesyrup]

Points or electronic?

 

[maplesyrup]

What heads, rockers and valve springs?

What plugs and heat range?

Have you pulled them, to see what they look like and see what the fueling is like.

We replied at the same time with similar questions it seems 😂👍

 

[maplesyrup]

As Garrick says above, assuming the brakes aren’t binding, I’d look at changing the coil and substituting a distributor one at a time to trouble shoot them, then I’d look at double checking fuel pressure, float heights, carb linkage setup, jetting and airflow with a snail gauge.

 

[maplesyrup]

I kind of hope the brakes are binding that would, as you say, be funny and easy to fix! Pop out now and let the handbrake off?

 

[maplesyrup]

Coil breaking down 🎲

 

[maplesyrup]

Doesn’t sound like you’re getting 3psi to me, how did you check the fuel pressure?

 

[maplesyrup]

I’ve always tee’d a gauge in the engine bay, ive got one fitted at the moment between the regulator and carbs that I’ve been meaning to remove as it’s not optimal to keep one fitted once the pressures set. You’d be welcome to borrow it for the cost of postage. I’ve got 8mm fuel line and hose from the tank to the carbs on that bug. Could be the tank filter or hard fuel line in your bug is blocked, pump is knackered fuel line kinked 🎲

 

[maplesyrup]

I thought you’d verified your fuel pressure was at 3psi 🤔 A lot of the “3.5 psi” pumps put out something very different… Try and slow down, you seem to be rushing through a lot of this, for example I’d check clutch pedal free play, fuel supply and pressure, carb synchronisation, throttle cable free play etc way before the first start up of a rebuilt engine.

 

[maplesyrup]

😂 We’ve all been there mate, I wasted an entire day when I was a lad learning that a distributor can be indexed 180 degrees out to the one you’re replacing, amazingly it drove (badly) which made things even more interesting. I’m sure you won’t have done any damage, but your cam burn in must have sounded interesting 🤔 Now crack on! Slowly.

 

[maplesyrup]

3mm Feck 😳 I’d go back to basics, set everything up correctly and do another cam break in, the cam and lifters will have only made contact on a small part of the nose of the camshaft lobes with very little spring pressure.

I would imagine that would run hot, it would be hard to fill a cylinder in a fraction of a second with a valve only lifting 3mm.

 

[maplesyrup]

What a rollercoaster! Strip it right down, clean and inspect everything and start again ☹