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The timing sounds like it's major retarded. Either check the advance is working or advance the timing by hand and try again
Posts by GARRICK.CLARK
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Change the coil, the wrong type of coil will cause problems too. Test again. Eyes on the gauge. Vac to 1 carb is OK, so long as the vac pipe is fitted above the butterfly. Put a finger tip in the exhaust tail pipe. Don't burn ya sen. No soot is a weak mixture, thus cause heat as well.
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The hot engine case is heating up the coil. Move the coil to the fan housing
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It's all a process of elimination. Change coil n test. Tick off the list
Change dizzy. Tick off the list.
Move coil.
If it's the same think carbs.
Are they getting plenty of fuel to them.
If you press the throttle and it just bogs down and does nothing, that's like loads of air going in (open throttle). But no fuel going in to increase the power out put.
A struggling engine will get hot cause its trying to push the car forward
Change dizzy. Tick off the list.
Move coil.
If it's the same think carbs.
Are they getting plenty of fuel to them.
If you press the throttle and it just bogs down and does nothing, that's like loads of air going in (open throttle). But no fuel going in to increase the power out put.
A struggling engine will get hot cause its trying to push the car forward
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I hope the brakes aren't stuck on
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I'm rolling the dice on it being a fuel issue.
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A kinked fuel pipe at the front will run the car at idle but not deliver enough for a proper run down the street.. But coil is still up there as a possibility. Especially as its been heated up by the hot case. 🎲🎲
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You have to think of twin dual throat dells/webers as 4 separate carbs as there are jets for each cylinder. The Fuel level should be just above the 1st step in the bowl. Any higher causes flooding. Too much
pressure causes Fuel to drip from the pump jets and down the middle of the axillary vents
A closed fuel needle valve will have a 6mm gap between the top edge of the float and the gasket
The fuel system needs checking. Starting with checking the gauze filter in the outlet pipe of the fuel tank isn't partially blocked.
No kinked pipes
Electric pump fitted under the tank, pushing fuel to the carbs at 3 psi.
Carb filters off, press throttle by hand. Look at all 4 pump jets, are all 4 working, and delivering the same amount. Start engine. Is Fuel dripping down throats of its own accord.
pressure causes Fuel to drip from the pump jets and down the middle of the axillary vents
A closed fuel needle valve will have a 6mm gap between the top edge of the float and the gasket
The fuel system needs checking. Starting with checking the gauze filter in the outlet pipe of the fuel tank isn't partially blocked.
No kinked pipes
Electric pump fitted under the tank, pushing fuel to the carbs at 3 psi.
Carb filters off, press throttle by hand. Look at all 4 pump jets, are all 4 working, and delivering the same amount. Start engine. Is Fuel dripping down throats of its own accord.
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Is this bug lowered at the front. I say this because I've seen electric pumps fitted at the rear of the car. The rake effect due to lowering won't allow Fuel to get to the rear of the vehicle as its an up hill route to the carbs. This is why fuel needs to be pushed to the carbs from under the fuel tank.
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There is supposed to be a ball bearing, a small steel rod and a spring under that screw
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Yes. Give it a go. Put a small wooden dowel into the hole with a tiny screw in the middle of the dowel so you can grip it. The dowel is to stop bits of chem metal dropping down into the hole.
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Well, if the pump rod/diaphragm mech hasn't been messed with, shortened etc and there's a long rod spring, possibly a short spring too, some little washers and an inner sleave then the last item being the nylock nut, this needs to be screwed on with around 3 to 4 mm thread sticking past the nut. There's loads of info on the Samba site.
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Those sizes should be OK.
None of the above figures are way rich or way too lean.
None of the above figures are way rich or way too lean.
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I'd hold off buying the 33's until you get an idea that you absolutely need them. All the 50's will do is create a rich spot when you rev it up quickly. Look at the tail pipe when you do it. Is it black smoke.
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It's all trial and error. Looks like previous owner was having problems too. Give the 52s a go. Each cylinder will want a different amount of fuel. Start at 3 turns out for all 4 cylinders. Then turn each screw while the motor is running in until the cylinder rpm goes down. Then out until it races up to its highest rpm. Do all 4 like this then leave them alone. For the mains, once you have it running nice and have ironed out the issues. Go on a run down a dual carriage way, constant 60. Pull over and remove a plug for a colour test. A white plug needs a bigger main jet. Stick with 180 air.
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It's the 1 with the brass plug on top. That's for a pressure gauge. Out is the tuther 1
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To be fair you need a gauge on it to check what psi the carbs are getting. Too much will cause internal leaks.
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