[GARRICK.CLARK]

It's all trial and error. Looks like previous owner was having problems too. Give the 52s a go. Each cylinder will want a different amount of fuel. Start at 3 turns out for all 4 cylinders. Then turn each screw while the motor is running in until the cylinder rpm goes down. Then out until it races up to its highest rpm. Do all 4 like this then leave them alone. For the mains, once you have it running nice and have ironed out the issues. Go on a run down a dual carriage way, constant 60. Pull over and remove a plug for a colour test. A white plug needs a bigger main jet. Stick with 180 air.

 

[Big Al]

Hi all I need some help. I’ve just rebuilt a new 1600 twin port engine for my bug.
the specs are
stock case
stock crank
engle 120 cam
twin dell 40s
new cooler
stock pistons and barrels
timing set to 7° BTDC @ 900 rpm and 30° BTDC @ 3000rpm
all tin wear is in place
The flaps in the fan shroud are in and working

now I did the bedding in run and dropped the oil. Refilled with 15w30 oil. Balanced the carbs. A week later ( today) I went for a drive she started up first time went for a drive and straight away I noted that they was no power at all, the rpm would slowly get to 3000 rpm in first and second gear put once in third there was now power at all and 37 mph was go it could do. Anyway I stopped at the petrol garage filled up went to start it and the engine would hardly turn over. Anyway I had a jump start and decided to get the bug home which is 3 miles away, now in them three miles the oil temperature went through the roof and hit 120°C on the gauge and the save my bug was also reading a high oil temperature.
now when starting the car on the drive and in neutral the engine will rev up just fine and is very response to the throttle.

please help I have no idea on where to start.

I havent read the 60 odd replies just adding my 2 peneth.
Carbs are big for a 16 so assume you have some chokes and small jet setup for them. As not running top end rather than bottom I assume not causing this prob. It maybe a little lackluster picking up low down in the rev range with the 120 cam too, especially if overcarbed/setup correctly so struggling to atomise the fuel at same time.

My mates are running 36 dells sucsessfully on 1600s with the following setups if it helps at all.
28mm chokes
115 main jet
35 pump jet
55 idle jets
9164.2 emulsion tubes.

I would check timing first however.
Timing depends on what dizzy you have.
009 is 28-32 at max advance.
The old vac only is 7 btdc
If you have a more modern vac with the vac and mech advance you want to block off the vac feed and set it to about 10 degrees at idle. Vac line back on and fine tune from there.

As for overheating could be so much. All tinware in place including engine skirts? wrag in fan....yeah I know lol, loose fan belt, oil blockage, over advanced timing and so on.

Best of luck 👍

 

[bug71]

Hi all I've just noticed a mistake on my description of the cam I'm running. I mistaking said it's a 120 cam, it not it's a 110 cam. Do know if that makes much difference?

Right my filter king regulator is he but come with no instructions, this may be a stupid question but which side is the inlet and which sid

e is the outlet?

 

[GARRICK.CLARK]

It's the 1 with the brass plug on top. That's for a pressure gauge. Out is the tuther 1

 

[bug71]

Cheers mate

 

[GARRICK.CLARK]

To be fair you need a gauge on it to check what psi the carbs are getting. Too much will cause internal leaks.

 

[bug71]

I've got the gauge just not put it on yet

 

[GARRICK.CLARK]

OK. Seal the thread with something.

 

[flc]

It's the 1 with the brass plug on top. That's for a pressure gauge. Out is the tuther 1

Are you sure? I would think the outlet (after the regulator before the carbs) would have the gauge on it? Otherwise your only checking pump pressure not what carb sees

 

[dc66]

Have a look underneath, they usually have arrows cast in the metal

 

['77 Westy]

Outlet has the pressure gauge, inlet is tother one.

 

[GARRICK.CLARK]

So it is. I stand corrected.

 

[bug71]

Hi all sorry for the long delay in updating. Well I got every thing back together and now all four pump jets are working and the engine starts up straight away. I've set the fuel pressure to 3 psi, is this correct?
It was actually running at 5 psi. Any way the old girl fired up just fine although if I open the throttle to fast there is a stumble ( when in neutral) so does this mean I need bigger pump jets or just something I have to live with?
Unfortunately when the engine was running at around 800 rpm there was a clicking nosie coming from the engine with a frequency of about one click a second, I decided to remove the fan belt and some how snapped it so no road trial today. Even with the fan bet off there was still a clicking sound every 1 second until I held the rpm up at 1400 rpm for a few seconds before dropping it back down to idle then it went, it may of also gone because the engine had just started to warm up, I have no idea what was causing the clicking sound. I will recheck the valve clearance tomorrow cause I've also got to slacken off the clutch cable cause there is no play I the pedal at all.

 

[maplesyrup]

I thought you’d verified your fuel pressure was at 3psi 🤔 A lot of the “3.5 psi” pumps put out something very different… Try and slow down, you seem to be rushing through a lot of this, for example I’d check clutch pedal free play, fuel supply and pressure, carb synchronisation, throttle cable free play etc way before the first start up of a rebuilt engine.

 

[bug71]

OK where to start.
The pump I brought is meant to be a3.5 psi pump, the fuel pressure gauge I used at first was crap it was giving incorrect readings which I was nit aware of until I used the new filter king pressure gauge. So this meant that my fuel pressure at the beginning was actually running at 5 psi.
Next up I stupidly over looked the clutch cable adjustment, a lesson I've no learnt.
The accelerator cable, linkage and carb linkages I did check for free and easy movement. Carbs are definitely set up and balanced and idle mixtures correctly set.
The new nosie, this clicking is worrying me. It's not a knocking sound it is a clicking sound like when you click your finger nails together or turn on a light switch.
I will definitely take on your advice and slow down, I'm starting to get very annoyed now with this engine

 

[DK Bug]

Not as I can give a great deal of input into your problems, but some things I have been experienced myself in the past.

For one, a bad electronic ignition giving all sorts of mysterious random problems..

And have also heard a “clicking” noise.
It turned out to be a ignition spark breaking trough the insulation.

Also
in the past where I build a Triumph Stag V8 engine, and for some reason there were no way we could make it run as expected.
Turned out it were the super expensive silicone sparkplug cables I have bought because everything should be one hundred percent top notch.
Found the fault because I had started the car inside the garage without the light turned on and the engine hood opened.
There were fireworks emerging from everywhere all over the cables.
Had some cheap new cables made up locally and all problems were gone.

 

[bug71]

So had some time to work on the bug this morning. The clutch cable adjuster needed 1 1/2 turns out to give me the 13mm free pedal play. I've also had a look at the valve clearances again and I think something has gone wrong. I first set them all to 0.004" for the bedding in run, then I was told to readjust them to the correct 0.006" which I did and on that day I checked each side three times. Well today I went out there and all 8 valves all had 1.5mm clearance WTF. Yes all the valves were the same none of them were at the 0.006" I left them at before I went for the first drive. I've removed the rocker shafts and inspected all 8 push rods and they all look good, the rocker shafts were both tight. So does this mean I've flattened the cam? I need to measure the valve lift on it but that will have to wait for another day. I've drained the oil and the changed the oil screen and there was no metal in the oil at all. I don't think the head studs have pulled out because I can't see that both side pulling out the exact amount. When turning g the engine over by hand I can feel compression on all four cylinders but I'm going to have to get a pressure gauge on it. What after reasons could there be why all 8 valve clearances were all the same and all massively to big?
Lifters breaking up?
I was thinking may be the pushrods had compressed but all by the same amount.
Any ideas would be great.

I suppose I could have messed the valve clearances up to set with but I checked them each three times.

 

[GARRICK.CLARK]

Run IT again, if it settles down then leave it. If the clearance continues to grow then it's a problem. Flat cam lobes aren't that common. It's a problem if the cam and followers aren't the same make, as the metals can be soft. Is this a new cam KIT. Or an Engle cam with old stock followers.
Is there zinc in the oil

 

[bug71]

New engle cam and stock followers. VWHERITAGE said this would be fine.
Zinc in the oil I have no idea I just brought 15w30 classic motor oil
The only parts that where reused was the crank, conrods and flywheel, all other parts where new from VWHERITAGE

 

[GARRICK.CLARK]

I'm not sure it's fine. Time will tell. If the clearance stays in the 6 thou range, then fine. Classic oil usually has zinc in it. To what amount is another question. There's risks attached to every build. The clearance can come from the push rod ends bedding into the followers. Test it again ASAP to stop you thinking about it. Hope you raised the Rpm to 2000 when you 1st ran it. Idle isn't good on a new motor