[SlowestCoach]

Sorry I've changed where i said I used old lifters, have no idea why I wrote that. The lifters where new stock ones from vwheritage, I brought the cam and lifters at the same time from them

Heritage sells two versions of stock lifters, at the moment. Which did you use?

 

[bug71]

Hi all I've got another crankshaft which is in much better condition than mine but this one has lots of homes drilled into it (see photo) my old one only had a few not as many as this one. Is this a stock crankshaft?
What are is the purpose of these holes?
Cheers all

 

[Bada Ben]

The holes remove some metal to reduce weight at those points, usually to balance the crankshaft. Stock crankshafts have similar holes too, but not usually very deep.
It looks like this one has been re-balanced since it was manufactured, or it could be aftermarket. Beware, some aftermarket cranks are cast instead of forged, (not quite as tough).
Measure the 'throw' and journal diameters to see if it is stock spec.
Maybe its just the picture, but some of those journals look slightly grooved.

 

[bug71]

All journals straight spot on stock, I will measure the throw tomorrow. All journals where wrapped in a sticky tape which has left marks on the crank, I will clean it up tomorrow as well

 

[GARRICK.CLARK]

I work in a machine/engine rebuild shop, and have never seen a vw crank balanced like that in over 30 years

 

[callookoval]

That crank doesn't look in good shape to me.

 

[dc66]

That doesn't look like balancing holes to me. If they are, it must have been WAY out!
Maybe someone's attempt at lightening?

 

[DK Bug]

You have just got your own crank reground, meaning it is within spec.

The small marks / groves it got from the broken lifters is easily polished down to a useable level, giving it a long life.
People that races high tuned V8s just polish their crank if it is within spec.

If it was me. I wouldn’t use the crank in the picture. I am sure someone had done the holes to lighten it and by that is is also severely weaken.
You don’t even know if its now severely out of balance because of the drillings!
The original VW cranks were balanced when left the factory, without the need for those big holes.

Your old crank works.
This one you don’t know if it will break shortly after you have assembled the engine again.

Play on the safe horse , and don’t take the chance.

 

[SlowestCoach]

There are signs of balancing post the lightening work (grinding marks on the webs) but I’d not run it without a dynamic balance check. Another trick is to drill inside the rod journal (concentric) which doesn’t impact the strength but reduces weight & amount of counterweight required. Not a trivial machining job though as the oil bores must be retained or moved.

 

[bug71]

Hi all vwheritage are sending me this in the photo, I asked for a camshaft paste. To me this just looks like a basic bearing assembly lube or can it be used as a lifter head and cam paste?
If not what cam and lifter head paste would you recommend?

 

[GARRICK.CLARK]

It does say on the tube for cams

 

[bug71]

The last stuff I got from vwheritage was a red paste not a lube. Just being super careful I use the correct stuff, don't want to mess up again

 

[GARRICK.CLARK]

They've given you the correct product

 

[bug71]

They've given you the correct product

👍

 

[Bada Ben]

When I bought my Engle 110, it came with a small tube of their own MoS2 "Break-In Lube", It was a few years ago, maybe they stopped including that.

 

[GARRICK.CLARK]

Problem with cam lube is that it gets wiped off when setting the tappets

 

[bug71]

Problem with cam lube is that it gets wiped off when setting the tappets

What is the best thing to use on the cam?

 

[GARRICK.CLARK]

There isn't a best thing. There's only cam lube, and crossed fingers. You could buy another tube and go overboard with it. It won't harm it. As long as the cam and followers are a good match metal wise you should be fine. Double check the bolt on cam wheel orientation, and check the oil pump body doesn't touch the 3 cam wheel bolts. Fit the followers into the case halves with oil, then spin them with your fingers. Tight followers are a problem.

 

[GARRICK.CLARK]

In the past on a floor Start engine. Before I've turned the key, 2 of us have rocked the engine back and forth to get some of the oil on to the cam etc. A quick turn over with plugs out primes the oil pump, once that's primed, plugs back in, on with the carbs etc. You no the oil light we will go out fast cause you've already primed it earlier.

 

[GARRICK.CLARK]

Heres a tip. I allway do it. Fit the con rods after you close the case. Super easy to do. And the weight of the case helps it keep stable while the nuts are being torqued. Dont forget the conrods have matching numbers that must be in the up position when fitted.