Try increasing the stroke as it will improve the torque if the engine is going in your Kombi, engle 110 , lift .430" lift with 1.1 rockers, 284 degrees duration versus the scat c25 at 387 lift using 1.1 rockers, duration is 272 degrees are totally different with the C35 having similar characteristics to the 110., I run engle 110 in several engines over the years, the one in my beetle pulls from 1800 RPM cleanly, do not over choke the carbs and for your application I would run 28 mm chokes so it does not have an issue with port velocity so the engine in derivable.
Try to fit as large a stroke as possible, 74mm is a drop in fit with only shimming the barrels to give you the deck height, nothing wrong with 94mm barrels and have two engine's currently running them with no issues.There is no substitute for cubic capacity if you are asking your engine to pull around a heavy car. 8.5 : 1 compression.
1/ Stock rockers shimmed on HD shafts.
2/ Yes and probably an external cooler with thermostat.
3/ I like the engle 110, Gene Berg said it was the best cam ever designed for a vw engine.
4/ Second hand 40 IDF's reconditioned but i still see people having good results with the empi carbs, depends on who you talk to.
5/ Stock tin ware with dog house cooler, all new engine sealing rubbers.
6/ Use original heater boxes with an appropriate exhaust system. don't go to big.
7/ All engines will last if you use the basic CCC, over cam, over compression and over carb. avoid them.
8/ A good quality torque wrench, engine stand and an ability to do up the gland nut FT.

 

Scat C35 would be my choice as well, with 1.25/1 rockers, for a bus we keep flywheel to 14lbs
Is it in a split or bay? exhaust choices in a bay are somewhat limited due to the engine support bar.
Given its a devon a 78mm stroke crank would help move it along and not be to much more work to build
Jo

 

If you’re sticking with a stock stroke 69mm crank and you’ve got a used genuine vw German one stick with that, going to be better than anything else at 69mm, don’t bother lightening the flywheel in a bus, stateside tuning sells heavy duty alu pushrods, quieter than the chromo and just as strong, I’m running dellorto 36’s on my 1776 in a bay. If you’re keeping rock stroke stick with the Engle 110 or web 86c camshaft don’t bother with the scat... also if you’re using that profile of cam stick with stock rocker arms on bolt up shafts, single heavy duty springs will be fine.
Ahnendorp custom sport exhaust runs rings around the vintage speed versions though a little more pricey... I ran my engine with a stock muffler for a couple of years before upgrading to ahnendorp...
Advice based on my own 1776 in a van built for lazy torque compression ratio very low and it’s been bomb proof since installed 7 years ago...
Chris

 

C35 is great in a beetle engine but from experience dead below 3-3,500rpm in a bus. I'd go for as close to stock as you can.
Dual springs are for high revs/high lift and will wear your valve train double quick.
As said above, for a bus you need torque at low revs.

My advice would be spend your money on capacity and some mild head work, keep the CR at or just below 8:1, stock valve train and you'll have a torquey long lasting engine.

It's hatd to tesist the promise of power from a longer duration cam, but it can only be at the expense of driveability. How much driving time do you spend red lining it foot to the floor?

I've been round the high power high revving highish CR circle and frankly though it was a blast round the Milton Keynes roundabout ring round, it was rubbish at all other times.

Having done that circle I now have a 2.4L with a stock cam. People tell me I've "left a lot on the table" but they haven't driven it. I may only have 100hp but I have 180ft/lb torque. Nothing slows it down, I rarely have to downshift, cool running at 70mph all day long, life in the fast lane. Big is beautiful.

 

I disagree with you about the C35 or engle 110, it all depends on how you choke to carbs, I run 28mm chokes in 44 IDF's and it pulls fro 1800 RPM< I have built and run many engines with these cams and they work well when matched correctly.

 

I sold mine, 2020, wasser crank, 40x35.5, 3 angle jobby, J-tubes, vs exhaust, drla40's 9.2:1, tight deck. It would go 70+ in 3rd. It went in a beetle who's owner said it was torquey as hell and he could do 0-100mph in 4th. But...it was crap in a bus by my judgement. Maybe as it went like shit off a shovel from 3,500 it just seemed gutless below. I tried 28, 30 and 32 vents, it liked 30's.

My "stock" 2400 has more useable revs, it's quiet and it sticks you to the seat from 1500rpm. Max power relates to 70mph in 4th. It's just more suitable for a bus all round IMO and it's not stressing itself to to do it. Can't understand why everyone rebuilding a 2l doesn't do the same, most of the work is machining, like a type-4 version of a mild 1776.

 

Scat cams are made of cheese though,
In a heavy van stick with as heavy duty main parts as possible, decent crank and valve train, very mild cams are best and if your going with 1776 in a van and it’ll last for ever...

 

http://johnmaherracing.com/category/all/

Worth a read. Scroll down to find part 1 etc

 

Your proposed spec would make a very nice engine for a bug, but not for a bus. Listen to what the guys are saying about Engle 110/Scat C35 cams – it’ll pull from 1800 revs. You want a bus engine to pull from just off idle, unless you want to row it along with the gearbox and boast about how much bhp it has at 6,000 revs.
To push a fully loaded Devon bus up hills you need torque and it’s capacity that makes torque, there is no replacement for displacement. You don’t need a straight cut cam gear, forged pistons, lightweight lifters or Chromoly pushrods. And you definitely don’t want a lightened flywheel.
Make the engine bigger and use a mild cam, a C20 or similar or C25 if more than 2.0l and it’ll be an engine making plenty of torque at low revs.
Scat cams might be made from cheese but it’s the same cheese as the other cam manufacturers’ use, except Web.

 

I’ve got a web cam in mine the 86c is the ‘same’ cam as the Engle 110/ scat c25, agreed straight cut cam gear not really worth it, stick with helical, CB Unitec rods have served me well....
Tbh forums are going to give you lots of conflicting views, give a reputable engine builder who also sells parts a call, you’ll get one tailored opinion whose reputation rides on selling quality parts and advice, stateside tuning, harry harpics, John Maher etc and you won’t go wrong...

 

I've got a web cam in mine the 86c is the 'same' cam as the Engle 110/ scat c25,

An 86c is a huge cam, virtually full race and totally unsuitable to a heavy bus. I think you must have it confused with another grind?

Jo

 

Thank you all for all the very very useful information, I'm glad I posted on here before making my purchase.
It's late now (4:30am) and I'm just off to bed but will reply more tomorrow.

I was basically looking at the lime bug engine build kits and the 1776 (from research) was the engine I wanted to build.
However I fully understand where you are all coming from with regards to displacement.

Taking into consideration what you have all said, I will definately be building a stroker engine.
I see limebug do a complete no nonsense kit (minus carbs, ignition and flywheel) from 2022cc upto 2332cc stroker

Ideally I want to buy everything in kit form and they seem to be knowledgable, setup for exactly my needs.
They can machine the new case, clearance case for stroker, plug for full flow, supply the complete engine build up kit and are there to offer support throughout the build.
I am sure I can also tailor the kit to pretty much suit my needs ie Engle cam over scat if there's enough difference, I can forge some components (if this will help with reliability).

With that being said, would I be silly to not build a 2332 engine when it works out the same cost as a 2022 engine?

https://www.limebug.com/product#?sub_category=425&category=249&sort=best_match&p_page=30

Would there be cooling issues with 2332 on long runs?

Ideally we want to be able to cruise long distances without ringing the bus's neck comfortable at 70/80mph, have reliability and make it bullet proof for now and future upgrades if we get bored a few years down the line &#128522;
That's more important then 0/60 times or bhp figures.

Thank you all once again, I'm lookkng forward to this part of the project &#128522;

RM

 

Keep it to 90.5 bore whichever stroke you decide on, some other things to consider with longer strokes are tin fitment becomes more of a problem & its harder to build an efficient engine with sensible compression as it goes up with stroke with all else being the same
Jo

 

???? don't understand this comment? Scat make & supply the blanks that alot of cam grinder use including Engle and Clay smith and they are a proven piece

Jo

 

Here's an interesting chart.

The C35 has advertised duration of 245° at 0.05" valve lift. The chart above shows it performs between 3,300 and 7,000 rpm. That resembles my experience.

 

Exactly the opposite in the engine's that I have built, pulls cleanly from 1800 rpm. I have used it several times and I have come to the conclusion that none of the people involved in the vw industry who I have posted below have no idea of what they are speaking about since i have read your post..

http://ranchotransaxles.com/building-a-reliable-and-powerful-street-engine-ii/
C 25 off idle to 4000 RPM. https://vwparts.aircooled.net/SCAT-C25-Type-1-Camshaft-1-1-or-1-25-Rockers-20004-p/20004.htm

C35 1500 RPM to 5000 RPM. http://vwparts.aircooled.net/SCAT-C35-Type-1-Camshaft-1-1-or-1-25-Rockers-20005-p/20005.htm

Engle 110 1500 rpm to 5800 RPM. http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Engle-W110-Type-1-Camshaft-1-1-or-1-25-Rockers-p/e6110.htm

Gene Berg GB 297 ( Engle 110 ) Best all around street cam ever made for a VW. Two-barrel carb or 2 single barrel GB 484, GB 477A or 42 DCNF Webers or equivalent is required. Stock heads will work, however, a set of our stock size valves, ported and polished heads provide smoother operation. Works fantastic with GB 855 heads to 5800 RPM. The more headwork and carburetion the better it runs. Requires GB 273A dual springs. 284 duration, 0.385" lift at cam. http://www.geneberg.com/cat.php?cPath=6_165_2773

I have come to the conclusion that none of the people involved in the vw industry who I have posted above have no idea of what they are speaking about since i have read your post.

 

Stock cam is 212° @ 0.05" = 1500-4500rpm, who'd have thought!
Webcam says 214° @ 0.05", more or less the same.

C25, 234° @ 0.05" = 3000 -6500rpm .Scat cams are racing cams.

Engle W90 "cheater" cam. I can't find a milder cam than this one other than stock.
224° @ 0.050 = 2200-5500.

 

e.

C25, 234° @ 0.05" = 3000 -6500rpm .Scat cams are racing cams.

I guess we have a different interpretation of what racing cams are then

Jo

 

Thanks once again for some interesting reading.
I have just been reading more threads over at Thesamba with regards to cams and my conclusion is still the Engle 110 if im not mistaken?

I think I have decided to go 2110cc @ 82mm x 90.5mm flowed with an external oil cooler unless this is going to be a poor choice?

Here is what is said about the Engle 110 and I have highlighted the bits I think will be important for my stroker build.

Power band 1500-5800 RPM, the more headwork and carburetion the better the low end will be.

You can get by with HD Single Valve springs and Bolt On Rocker Shafts. Use a compression ratio of 8-8.5:1.

If you choose to use this cam with 1.25 rockers, you will extend the top end to 6000, requires dual valve springs.

Details:

Manufacturer: Engle
Grind: 110
Lift @ Cam Lobe: 0.430"
Adv Duration: 247
Dur @ 0.050": 108

So with all of that info above, id stick with standard 1.1:1 rockers?

Am I wise buying everything in a kit form from limebug rather then source all the individual components myself?

https://www.limebug.com/product/vie...t/view/1744/2110cc-complete-stroker-engine-kit-82mm-crank-x-905mm-bore-254#temp

Is going forged componenets inside the case (crank, h rods and pistons) worth the relatively small extra cost for both longevity and piece of mind? for example....... Mahle forged pistons are an extra £125, crank is £133 and rods are £126

8mm standard case studs will do I presume?

Thanks once again, you are helping me no end, get closer to making a decision and takign the plunge

RM

Ps Hey VWJO, seems we are pretty local to one another........... will be good to meet some fellow Aircooled nuts once Stella is on the road

 

Thanks once again for some interesting reading.
I have just been reading more threads over at Thesamba with regards to cams and my conclusion is still the Engle 110 if im not mistaken?

I think I have decided to go 2110cc @ 82mm x 90.5mm flowed with an external oil cooler unless this is going to be a poor choice?

Here is what is said about the Engle 110 and I have highlighted the bits I think will be important for my stroker build.

Power band 1500-5800 RPM, the more headwork and carburetion the better the low end will be.

You can get by with HD Single Valve springs and Bolt On Rocker Shafts. Use a compression ratio of 8-8.5:1.

If you choose to use this cam with 1.25 rockers, you will extend the top end to 6000, requires dual valve springs.

Details:

Manufacturer: Engle
Grind: 110
Lift @ Cam Lobe: 0.430"
Adv Duration: 247
Dur @ 0.050": 108

So with all of that info above, id stick with standard 1.1:1 rockers?

Am I wise buying everything in a kit form from limebug rather then source all the individual components myself?

https://www.limebug.com/product/vie...t/view/1744/2110cc-complete-stroker-engine-kit-82mm-crank-x-905mm-bore-254#temp

Is going forged componenets inside the case (crank, h rods and pistons) worth the relatively small extra cost for both longevity and piece of mind? for example....... Mahle forged pistons are an extra £125, crank is £133 and rods are £126

8mm standard case studs will do I presume?

Thanks once again, you are helping me no end, get closer to making a decision and takign the plunge

RM

Ps Hey VWJO, seems we are pretty local to one another........... will be good to meet some fellow Aircooled nuts once Stella is on the road [/QUOTE

110 is a good cam & go with 1.1/1 rockers & single springs, forged crank is a good investment if its decent quality, some cheaper forged ones put there that are no better than cast cranks, what brand crank is it?
I beams rods are fine for what you are wanting to do in a lower revving engine, quality control on Mahle seems better so worth using them for that alone.
8mm studs will be better choice, thats what we would use

Few local shows & meets round here that we will be at so will look out for your splitty in future, we are normally in a red 67 1776cc cabrio or my blue 2276 IDa beetle both on gasburners

Jo

 

Don't shoot the messenger, I didn't draw the graph.
Cams can only operate over a range of revs, that's why variable valve timing was invented. A fixed cam that will pull across the revs to produce low down torque and high rev power is against the laws of physics.

108 is the lobe centres btw, not the advertised duration.

As for Scat and racing, well that's how they describe themselves.

"Scat Racing Performance Camshaft. These are supplied with instructions and New Cam Followers must always be fitted with new camshafts.
Please See Spec Below the choose the correct Scat camshaft for your engine from the drop down box.

C20, Valve Lift: 0.372 inches, Duration: 278 degrees

C25, Valve Lift: 0.423 inches, Duration: 275 degrees

C35, Valve Lift: 0.451 inches, Duration: 286 degrees

C45, Valve Lift: 0.460 inches, Duration: 296 degrees"

 

Don't shoot the messenger, I didn't draw the graph.
Cams can only operate over a range of revs, that's why variable valve timing was invented. A fixed cam that will pull across the revs to produce low down torque and high rev power is against the laws of physics.

108 is the lobe centres btw, not the advertised duration.

As for Scat and racing, well that's how they describe themselves.

"Scat Racing Performance Camshaft. These are supplied with instructions and New Cam Followers must always be fitted with new camshafts.
Please See Spec Below the choose the correct Scat camshaft for your engine from the drop down box.

C20, Valve Lift: 0.372 inches, Duration: 278 degrees

C25, Valve Lift: 0.423 inches, Duration: 275 degrees

C35, Valve Lift: 0.451 inches, Duration: 286 degrees

C45, Valve Lift: 0.460 inches, Duration: 296 degrees"

Oooopsssss my bad....... told you I was just learning! Believe me, my practical skills are a whole lot better then my theory :lol:

Limebug recommended the C20 when I called them up, but judging by your input, they seem quite a way off of stock.

I did spot some CB Perf Eagle cams, whats your opinion on this 216@0.50 cam? http://www.cbperformance.com/product-p/2229.htm
Seems a closer match to stock then the engle unless im mistaken once again?

Apreciate your imput also Zed, certainly giving me something to think about.

Thank you

RM

 

You’ve moved the goal posts – first you wanted an engine to push a heavy bus up hills now you want to cruise long distances at 70/80mph. You’re never going to cruise comfortably at 70 or 80mph in a bus with a type 1 engine – it will be working very hard to get to 80mph and it’ll be hot.
You’re second suggested engine spec is more suitable for a bus, but I think the Engle 110 has too much duration and I’d choose an Engle 100 or the similar Scat C25. You’ll lose a bit of power at the top end but gain at low revs where you need it. Incidentally, the spec you quote for the W110 is incorrect, it has 284deg advertised duration and 247deg at 0.50”.
I use a C25 in a 20l (type 4) and it pulls from just off idle. I don’t agree with the rev range in the chart posted earlier at all, real life experience just doesn’t correspond. Neither do I agree with the statement that Scat cams are racing cams, although some are.
The 2110 kit from Limebug looks okay. I’d choose a forged crank, hypereutectic pistons (you don’t need forged), I beam rods (stronger but probably heavier than H beam), standard cam gear, C25 cam (or Engle W100) and standard rockers, I’d avoid polished heads if possible. However, I think what you really want is more of a racing engine, so you’ll go for a W110 cam and 1.25:1 ratio rockers and double springs. Just remember that the stronger the spring the more load on the valve train and the heavier the load the quicker it will wear, just for those occasions you want to rev the engine to 6k.
Have you thought about a Scooby conversion?

 

You've moved the goal posts - first you wanted an engine to push a heavy bus up hills now you want to cruise long distances at 70/80mph. You're never going to cruise comfortably at 70 or 80mph in a bus with a type 1 engine - it will be working very hard to get to 80mph and it'll be hot.
You're second suggested engine spec is more suitable for a bus, but I think the Engle 110 has too much duration and I'd choose an Engle 100 or the similar Scat C25. You'll lose a bit of power at the top end but gain at low revs where you need it. Incidentally, the spec you quote for the W110 is incorrect, it has 284deg advertised duration and 247deg at 0.50".
I use a C25 in a 20l (type 4) and it pulls from just off idle. I don't agree with the rev range in the chart posted earlier at all, real life experience just doesn't correspond. Neither do I agree with the statement that Scat cams are racing cams, although some are.
The 2110 kit from Limebug looks okay. I'd choose a forged crank, hypereutectic pistons (you don't need forged), I beam rods (stronger but probably heavier than H beam), standard cam gear, C25 cam (or Engle W100) and standard rockers, I'd avoid polished heads if possible. However, I think what you really want is more of a racing engine, so you'll go for a W110 cam and 1.25:1 ratio rockers and double springs. Just remember that the stronger the spring the more load on the valve train and the heavier the load the quicker it will wear, just for those occasions you want to rev the engine to 6k.
Have you thought about a Scooby conversion?

I wouldnt exactly call it moving the goal posts............ Just expanding on a previous answer after thinking how we plan to use the bus.
I also naievely thought that 70mph cruising would be relatively simple.
Im new and trying to learn quickly......... if you hadnt realised lol

I apreciate your informed post and trust me, the last thing I want to build is a racing engine, im genuinely here for the advice from those more knowledgeable then myself.
I would of already purchased an unsuitable 1776 engine if i thought I knew better.

We have a holiday in the bus booked for first week in August so I need to make a decision and get it ordered by Friday, so I have plenty of time to do the build as some parts are 6 weeks wait so im doing a crash course on engine speccing and its frazzling my brain :crazy:

What is your opinion on these CB Perf cams? They seem very close to stock http://www.cbperformance.com/product-p/2229.htm

2229 - Dur 260 / Dur. @ .050 216 / Lift .299 / Lift w/1.1:1 .328

Youll be pleased to hear i have ditched the Magnum 044 Heads with there double springs, these were from somewhere else and cheaper then LimeBugs lowest spec heads.
I could get them for -£250 per head for the 044 Magnums brand new and theyre almost £500 per head on LB........ this was the sole reason i specified these heads initially. I thought for that price, id get them and be able to utilise them no bother. Another newbie mistake I guess.

Which heads would you recommend?

Id absolutely love to do the Scooby conversion, however i dont think my partner in crime would be so keen as she's a traditionalist and has her heart set on keeping it aircooled I think....... my powers or persuasions are not THAT great unfortunately

I apreacite your time and input, thank you Westy

 

One thing I noticed in that kit is it doesn't appear to have a deep sump included, unless the van is really low a deep sump should be used on your build

Jo

 

There's not going to be a cam that everyone will agree to be correct and you'll have to make compromises. And you need to consider the whole package so that one part compliments the other, the bigger the engine the more the cam duration can be. Head flow and valve sizes - small valves and ports for high velocity at low revs and maximum torque but big valves and ports for maximum bhp at high revs. And compression ratio; as cam overlap increases static CR must also increase to maintain the optimum dynamic CR.
A standard or near standard cam profile works well is a standard capacity engine to produce power across a reasonably wide rev range but as capacity increases the power band tends to occur at lower revs. With the same cam profile, instead of useable power between say 2000 to 4000 in a small engine it might be 1000 to 3000 in a large capacity - the same width but different revs.
For a bus I'd use a near standard cam in a 1600, circa 2.0l a Scat C20 or similar and above 2.0l a C25. A standard cam in a 2100 will have a power band too low in the rev range IMO, good for towns and climbing hills, not so good for cruising at 70mph.
I have a type 4 engine and can't suggest a suitable type 1 head but you'll need bigger valves than standard, but not too big and a good port shape. A mirror finish is a waste of time and time that you have to pay for if you're buying heads. Incidentally, if you're starting from a clean sheet why are you looking at a type 1? A type 4 is stronger and easier to make a large capacity - my 2316cc doesn't require any machining or clearancing.
Spend some time reading John Maher Racing website http://johnmaherracing.com/ John was building a 2110 before he went back to being a drummer but you can see what you are letting yourself into.

 

The consensus on engine design appears to be pick a cam that will provide power in the rev ramge you want then build the engine around it. To go with that, generally speaking as HP is approximately torque per second, the faster the engine spins, the higher the HP, so to get impressive peak HP numbers you spin the engine faster. To make the engine spin fast requires valve overlap to make the exhaust suck the fuel in. This scavenging doesn't work below certain revs and the more overlap your cam has, the higher the revs need to be to scavenge, but the higher it'll rev once it does = high peak HP.
Where it all goes wrong is the assumption that an engine with say 200HP peak power must be capable of pushing a bus along at a reasonable speed. Not so. It's torque that does this. I bet my puny 100hp 2.4l engine would give my previous 135HP 2020 a good race off the lights because it has heaps of torque.

I am sorry to disagree with you about how you chose a cam, you chose the heads and have them flowed and then chose the cam to get the most out of the heads at .050" lift, the cam cannot do it's job if the heads do not match the characteristic of the cam, you talk about street eliminator heads having an issue with heat and yet I have a 2275 with 10.8 to 1 compression ratio and a FK87 cam and fitted with street eliminator in my Karmann Ghia, that car has been driven long distances to various meets in Australia, it is like everything else ,If you do not match the components it will not work well together.

 

Just come across this post. Why has nobody asked how long the engine is expected to last? Just saying...

In my decades playing with engines, I would like to point out the difference between the W100 and W110 in real life. In my van, on an otherwise identical 1776 (apart from jetting), the 100 would allow local 30mph urban hills to be taken in fourth, whilst the 100 required shifting down to third - they are that different at low rpm. Quite a pain in the ass for relaxed driving... Ultimately, you simply cannot beat a mildly upgraded T4 motor for torque and longevity. There is a reason VW never made the T1 engine any larger than 1585cc.

Good luck, Carl.

 

So much shitty information in this thread, the poor guy doesn't stand a chance.

 

Care to elaborate Luke? I'm going to be making the purchase this evening.

I have changed spec though!

I'm going for the CB Performance Builders Choice 2110cc kit with single sprung heads and a Eagle 2229 cam.

The cam is what I am still unsure of at the moment and don't know if it's too stock like for the extra cc's?

Thank you &#128522;

 

It doesnt matter now, however thank you to those that did have an input and gave me plenty of food for thought........... as well as bedtime reading

I have ordered my components and all should be here in 4/5 weeks

See my bus project thread in my signature for the full spec list

Thank you once again

 

Sorry I was sat in Honk Kong airport with a delayed flight home and they just called us up or else I would've been more specific.
Racing cams
Made of cheese
Not being able to cruise at 70 in a bus (especially a splitty!)
Avoiding polished heads...

All very sweeping (and questionable)


234º @0.050" being a racing cam... Um...
Pretty much all VW cams are ground on one of two blanks. EP12 or SC1
There are loads of 'theories' as to what cam can be run with what lifter... It's best just to speak to the grinder. Or use Engle lifters with Engle cams, CB with Eagle, Scat with Scat and Web with Web (which they confirmed are Scat)
Webcam will happily recommend what lifters (Scat) to run and also what spring pressure, pushrods etc etc...

Our Late Bay with camper interior will sit at 70 just fine. Big deep sump, big external oil cooler and good synthetic oil. Happy all day. (Thick wall 92mm cylinders in there) 40 IDF with a Web 218/119 adv 2º, Mofoco ported 35x32 heads and 8.7:1

In a splitty you'd have no issues

I have never heard anyone say to stay away from ported heads.
Unless they're done by the local butcher. Porting is about increasing port flow AND velocity, people can easily increase flow but lose air speed, that's what loses you power and makes an engine feel soggy.
Proper ported heads are night and day over the same 'as cast' heads. CBs latest CNC porting options are mint.
Roy at Mofoco offers some tidy hand porting work too.

My next bus engine will likely be a 78 x 92 (thickwall) EFI.

Rottie I've just checked oeut your project log, CB seem to have looked after you
Be sure to post some updates!