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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When refitting the oil stainer plate on a type 1 case what does everyone use to ensure that the nuts are correctly torqued? Both Haynes and Bentley give the torque as 5ft/lb. I have a torque wrench that starts at 5 ft/lb and I am a little suspicious of using it as torque wrenches are notoriously inaccurate at their lowest settings.

I have even thought of getting an ounce/inch torque wrench but if my maths is correct then it now becomes 900 ounce/inches. Your thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.
 

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I always just hold the ratchet head so I can't exert enough torque to do damage. I then accept that if a stud does pull, it was going to.
A 6mm helicoil kit is so cheap that it should be part of every mechanic's tool kit. I have to say that I have been working on them since the late 60s, so I have a general feel for the tightness. You'll find that recoil will supply a starter tap separately which will usually cut straight into the hole left by the 6mm stud

Same with the 10mm head studs. When I strip an engine with 10mm studs, I torque all the studs up to 35 ft lbs and know that if one pulls, it was going to. It saves warranty claims 3 weeks later when a stud pulls and the head starts flapping.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yes that is what my instincts were telling me. However I was curious as to how a novice would judge that sort of thing. Currently we have what is a new (5K) case with no problems and I would like to keep it that way. But, I'm sure that others are scared of the situation and as a result do not tighten things enough and thus oil leaks.

Thanks for the input.
 

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I use a deep 10mm socket, hold the ratchet head in the palm of my hand and have the socket sticking out between the 1st and 2nd fingers. It is fairly difficult to overtighten with this method.

A lot of drippy sump plates seem to be no longer flat on the sealing edge, I sometimes dress them up with a file before refitting.

Dave.
 
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