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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need to replace the push rod tubes in my 1.6 bus. It seems easy enough to do but can I just clarify a few points before going ahead gung-ho style?

1. It's the seals that are leaking, but I assume I still need to replace the tubes as well and not just the seals?

2. If I buy spring loaded tubes I understand I can replace them with the engine in-situ. I'm not sure whether the current tubes used are standard or spring loaded though. If they are standard tubes, am I still able to remove them in-situ through the rocker covers and then replace with spring loaded ones? Or would that be an engine out jobbie?

3. If the above makes a difference, is there a way to tell what kind of tubes are in there before I start?

4. If it's all OK and I can carry on with the engine in-situ, can I replace all 8 in one go and set valve clearances afterwards? Or do I do cylinders 1, 2, 3, 4, rotating engine and setting clearances as I go?

5. And finally, I've seen both spring loaded and telescopic tubes, in either plastic or metal for sale. What's the difference and which ones are best?

Phew! Thanks in advance - I want to make sure I get it right you see. :)
 

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1. You don't need to replace the tubes, just the seals. The standard pushrod tubes are just round for most of their length but with a concertina bit on either end. Put the seals on and then stick your finger or the back end of a socket handle in the end and wiggle it to pull the tube longer. It'll then compress when you torque the head down.

2. Spring loaded tubes can be inistalled with the engine in - remove the rocker assembly, pull out the pushrods and then pull out the old pushrod tubes. Put in the new sprung tubes, then pushrods, then rocker assembly.

3. Standard pushrod tubes are made from 1 piece and have a concertina shape for about the last inch of each end.

4. Do all 8 in 1 go and do valve clearances at the end.

5. Dunno, but I've got metal sprung ones on mine, they seem ok.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Bugger. That'll be a 'take it to the garage' job then. :(

In the 'revisions and amendments' section of my 1.6 Haynes manual it says you can replace in situ as long as you use spring loaded ones though.

And this:



:confused:

So are you saying I can't do it in-situ only because the current tubes may be standard ones or can't do it full stop? If I were to get the garage to replace with spring loaded ones would I be able to do it myself in the future? :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
garethj said:
1. You don't need to replace the tubes, just the seals. The standard pushrod tubes are just round for most of their length but with a concertina bit on either end. Put the seals on and then stick your finger or the back end of a socket handle in the end and wiggle it to pull the tube longer. It'll then compress when you torque the head down.
But if it's the standard ones in there at the moment I wouldn't be able to put them back in - only spring loaded? :confused:

garathj said:
2. Spring loaded tubes can be inistalled with the engine in - remove the rocker assembly, pull out the pushrods and then pull out the old pushrod tubes. Put in the new sprung tubes, then pushrods, then rocker assembly.
That's what I've been reading on here and in manuals, until Spiny said that's not so.

Now I'm really :confused: :lol:
 

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on the 1600 the head holds the tubes in place, you can only remove them without taking the head off by taking out the pushrod then physically knocking them out with a pair of molegrips etc.

it's the 'tyep4' engines where you slip the tubes in through the head.

the spring loaded tubes can be fitted without removing the head, but they are generally shit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ahh I see. Thanks.

How bad are the spring loaded ones? I really can't afford a garage to take the engine out and do the work at the moment. Do you think I could replace the worst leaking one myself as a temporary measure - to last say 4-5 months until I have some more money? Or is that just a waste of time that will need re-doing in 2 weeks.
 

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i did my 1600cc tubes with engine in situ (in the camper type1 engine), they were concertina type originals replaced by scat spring loaded ali ones.

remove rocker, withdraw push rods, bend out old originals, replace with spring loaded with new seals. it was a pain in the ar$e with the van on the on low axle stands and a fractured rib but yes you can do it.

si
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
sintor said:
i did my 1600cc tubes with engine in situ (in the camper type1 engine), they were concertina type originals replaced by scat spring loaded ali ones.

remove rocker, withdraw push rods, bend out old originals, replace with spring loaded with new seals. it was a pain in the ar$e with the van on the on low axle stands and a fractured rib but yes you can do it.

si
That was what I was hoping. Buying the bus has left me skint for a while. :lol:

:eek: How did you fracture your rib?! :hug: It didn't fall on you did it?! I think I'd be able to get to it without raising it up. I really don't fancy being underneath, even with stands.
 

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spring loaded

In my experience spring loadeds are they way to go. Put them on my 1600 bus with engine intact. It's awkward but not difficult once I worked out my pat pending technique:
Take the pushrods out and just yank the old tubes out with pliers or whatever. Easy.
The trouble is the new ones only just fit into the space they need to fill when theyre fully compressed which is almost impossible on their own when youre lying on your back under a van with oily hands and very little room.
So what I did was before taking one under the van I sqeezed it all the way closed and held it while my girlfriend to wrapped some heavy duty tape around the springs section and beyond so that it stayed compressed just with the tape.
Then you slide under, waggle it into place then start peeling the tape back and it expands nice and gently as you do it. Keep turning as it opens it to make sure the seals are dead centre. Pretty soon its expanded right in and won't turn any more. Job done!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ahh thanks, I'll remember that! :) I read a thread about a guy who cut his thumb badly when installing them - don't want a repeat of that! :lol: Hubby and I are going to take it in turns so I don't end up with a sore back like when I did valve clearances on the bug. :lol: Team effort!!!
 

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Pushrod tubes replacement

Jeez! Split thumbs, broken ribs! If i knew it was that dangerous I'd have taken it to the garage! :crazy:
 

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alfietinker said:
:eek: How did you fracture your rib?! :hug: It didn't fall on you did it?!
squeezed by my good lady and 5 y/o daughter (combined wait of oh maybe 12 stone max) on a fairground ride so nowt to do with engines but compressing tubes was painfull none the same.

good luck and the tape trick seams to make sence

si
 
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