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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm looking at getting a second hand 1641 longblock. The engine is halfway through being "professionally" rebuilt and hasn't been run so pushrods, heads etc are all new apart from the crankcase and a few other bits. valvetrain is new.
What should i ask/check? Also are there any components you wouldn't use "second hand" in a rebuilt engine or keep stock for 1641 heads?

Thanks in advance guys.
 

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jugglemonkey86 said:
I'm looking at getting a second hand 1641 longblock. The engine is halfway through being "professionally" rebuilt and hasn't been run so pushrods, heads etc are all new apart from the crankcase and a few other bits. valvetrain is new.
What should i ask/check? Also are there any components you wouldn't use "second hand" in a rebuilt engine or keep stock for 1641 heads?

Thanks in advance guys.
Ask how old the case is, if it's been align bored or any other machine work done. Then turn it by hand to feel if there are any 'rough' or 'tight' spots.

I just had to shell out another £500 quid as the case on my motor was scrap, despite it being a well built Drag motor with few passes on it....
 

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2-bob Monkey Mafia said:
, despite it being a well built Drag motor with few passes on it....
Been there too this year.......

Tight spots are not good news, but a 360 stiffness is acceptable especially if its had new bearings all round and new rings.

Ask to see it run up on a bell housing - make sure there are no leaks, clanks or end float that is "hidden".

get a compression test done as well. Be wary if one is down and the rest are up, - all within 10% of each other.

gently poke at the push rod seals with a finger nail - should be flexi if new seals are used - old seals are either iron hard or very soggy if they've been lying at the bottom of an oily parts box.

flip the rocker covers off - new cover gaskets? Is the rocker gear clean or gritty and cruddy - sign of being thrown together.
 

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By a tight spot.

get it turned over on the starter half a dozen times and then tyy pulling the front pulley off.

My race motor went from hi compression 360 degree stiff with no end float to loose and couple of mm in one pass!
 

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Be careful taking some of the above advice literally. All engines have *tight spots* to the untrained person. As each cylinder goes through its compression stroke the engine becomes harder to turn, but at TDC and BDC you will find the engine is easier to turn - this is all normal.

tom.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
cheers guys. Thanks tom, It should feel uniform in movement i.e. tight spots on compression then easyer to turn......if it grinds...dont buy it right?!?! ;)

any other advice at all? he says the case hasn't been align bored or anything? should i worry as its an old case or could it be ok, and not need the machining?
 

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jugglemonkey86 said:
cheers guys. Thanks tom, It should feel uniform in movement i.e. tight spots on compression then easyer to turn......if it grinds...dont buy it right?!?! ;)

any other advice at all? he says the case hasn't been align bored or anything? should i worry as its an old case or could it be ok, and not need the machining?
It all depends on price the ideal way would be to build a replacement engine from the start, but again its down to cost

If the engines a mildish small capacityish used every day a line bored case it not a problem

A line bored case used for thrashing down the strip with big turbos and abused to with in an inch of its life[as in drag racing]is realy not the way forward and I would use a new case for such a project

The ideal way to buy a used engine it to hear it run first if not pay a little less for it so if there are problems you have the money to fix them
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
thanks for that PRO33. It's going to be used on a daily so no thrashing around these parts! There won't be a chance to hear it run at all it also dosn't have a flywheel. heads, B+Ps, pushrod tubes has all been upgraded. I understand it will be difficult to tell though...bit of a gamble?!?! :rolleyes:
 

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GermanLkManx said:
Be careful taking some of the above advice literally. All engines have *tight spots* to the untrained person. As each cylinder goes through its compression stroke the engine becomes harder to turn, but at TDC and BDC you will find the engine is easier to turn - this is all normal.

tom.
Take the plugs out???
 

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jugglemonkey86 said:
thanks for that PRO33. It's going to be used on a daily so no thrashing around these parts! There won't be a chance to hear it run at all it also dosn't have a flywheel. heads, B+Ps, pushrod tubes has all been upgraded. I understand it will be difficult to tell though...bit of a gamble?!?! :rolleyes:
Its gamble but if you are happy with the people who are rebuilding it why not :)
 

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fit 3 flywheel end float shims and then the flywheel. if its all new the end float should be somthing like .
if you have alot of end float still you may have a problem..
 
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