It's all trial and error, often with pieces needed to be made and welded on/blended in with repaint.
Rear tinware query ‘74 bug
This is driving me nuts. ‘74 Beetle 1600 twin port and will have twin Weber 34 ICT’s and J tubes so I need to change the rear tinware over the exhaust for the type with no holes. It has the “wider” breast plate.
Problem is I can’t find anywhere the right shape rear tinware, they all seem to be moulded for the narrow breast plate?
This is the one I bought but it just doesn’t fit:
![Light Helmet Fender Gas Bumper]()
![Hood Luggage and bags Bag Motor vehicle Gas]()
The breast plate:
![Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Tread Wheel]()
![Automotive tire Bumper Automotive exterior Gas Automotive wheel system]()
And comparison with the one that came off which also wasn’t a sound fit:
![Wood Gesture Thigh Font Brick]()
![Gas Auto part Automotive tire Metal Wood]()
Question then, I am wasting my time trying to get the right rear tin? Any issue if I switch the breast plate for the narrower one which should fit the replacement rear tin I already have?
cheers
Lee
Problem is I can’t find anywhere the right shape rear tinware, they all seem to be moulded for the narrow breast plate?
This is the one I bought but it just doesn’t fit:
The breast plate:
And comparison with the one that came off which also wasn’t a sound fit:
Question then, I am wasting my time trying to get the right rear tin? Any issue if I switch the breast plate for the narrower one which should fit the replacement rear tin I already have?
cheers
Lee
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Yeah, gaps in the tinware is an engine killer.
The wide breastplate and rear tray should close like this, (Pulley cover tin removed for clarity) :
![Automotive tire Bumper Automotive wheel system Gas Rim]()
I've also fitted seals along the edge of the tray where it meets the cylinder cowls, (stops squeaks and air leaks), may be overkill, but I remember a test done by John Maher, (of drag racing engine fame), where he noted the oil temp of an engine with properly fitted stock tinware, then sealed all the joints between each tin part and it ran consistently quite a few degrees cooler, (can't remember the exact numbers).
The wide breastplate and rear tray should close like this, (Pulley cover tin removed for clarity) :
I've also fitted seals along the edge of the tray where it meets the cylinder cowls, (stops squeaks and air leaks), may be overkill, but I remember a test done by John Maher, (of drag racing engine fame), where he noted the oil temp of an engine with properly fitted stock tinware, then sealed all the joints between each tin part and it ran consistently quite a few degrees cooler, (can't remember the exact numbers).
great idea! Thanks for the tip Dave.Lee
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
