As it is 1835 cc thick wall I will aim at, it is 97 mm in the case and 101 in the heads, same as 1914cc.
Have already checked the studs, with nearly twice the torque. All treads are fine.
Yes the case is fine with nearly no corrosion and no cracks to find.
Only thing is the lifter bores is to their max.
Think it is as good as it can get for a 50 year old engine case.
Have already got it linebored ,by someone else with the right tooling, who knows how.
My oldest son is a toolmaker, therefore the machine work is for free. 😁
But should I leave it with the 10 mm studs?
On the other hand. If money were no issue. I would just have bought a brand new alu. engine case.
10mm headstuds directly into the case, without casesavers, and boring for 94 barrel size = no. It is very close and not worth the risk. Fit 8mm studs and case savers, and bore for the cylinders carefully. Case savers resist stud pullout FAR better than studs straight into the case.
Decide on everything now before you start machining/building, it's all in the combination. Changing one or two things mid way through can ruin a good known combo. So... finalise what you want in terms of bore, cam, induction, valve size, exhaust... etc... youve had a lot of good suggestions already.... but....to add to those.... think about the air filter/inlet into the induction and..
don't forget the ignition system!.
If you want decent, smooth idle, almost stock like with 1776cc... don't use the usual engle 100 or bigger, it will work, but it won't be smooth and will be hard to tune with a single carb.. with twin carbs, completely different...
I'd say... for a fairly low rpm, nice daily driver type deal, easy to maintain, reliable..
Cheater cam by engle, cb, webcam
Csp or vintage speed stock style high flow exhaust
Single HD springs, retainers, etc.
Hi flow stock style inlet manifold
Bored out venturi solex 34 pict 3.
As much cylinder head work as you can do/afford.
Tight deck height. Approx 1mm
Decent Elephant feet adjusters, shimmed rocker shafts.
Full flow oil, 26mm pump.
Comp ratio between 8.5-9.0 to 1 depending on the cam.
If staying below 5000rpm, stock pushrods. Valve geometry
set correctly, and pushrod length adjusted if necessary.
Statically balance rods n pistons.
Dynamically balance rotating assembly.
Don't fit a small restrictive air filter. Modded stock style is nice.
Hoover oil modifications are good. Don't do the Hoover cam tunnel mod. 😮*
Decent ignition.. I.e. not cheap Chinese 009 or svda.
ALL the stock tinware and seals.
Deep sump, especially if you do longer journeys.
It will start nice, will warm up well because of the autochoke, should idle around 900-950, and once it gets going, will pull very nicely and have a good increase in torque over stock for hills, extra weight in the car etc.. also reasonable on fuel compared to twin 40s etc.. however twin Chinese 40s or kadrons would also work... I would consider changing to better pushrods if fitting those carb setups..
You WILL need to jet/time it differently to stock as it's not a stock engine!.. but that's true for ANY non stock motor.... consider some gauges to tune it yourself, or have it rolling roaded by someone you trust.
Rocket ship?! No... not the intention... fun to build and use?, good value? definate increase over stock? Something Stock looking, but different and personal to yourself? Imo..yes.
If you have a toolmaker in the family, that should help with a lot of the mods
* unless you're doing other external oil system cooling mods...