Longer push rod so it activates sooner ?

 

Smaller slave cylinder.

 

Or adjust the pivot point on either the master or slave cyls - Lengthen the arm that actuates the master cyl so the piston moves further or shorten the arm at the bellhousing end.

I am also planning a hydraulic conversion - Have ordered one of these - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLUTCH-C...NTRIC-SLAVE-CYLINDER-FORD-MONDEO-GALAXY-MTX75-TRANSMISSION-1478806/232056688690 and hopefully I'll be able to get it to work in the T1 gearbox.

Would be interested in any photos of your master cyl setup....

Dave.

 

I am also planning a hydraulic conversion - Have ordered one of these - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLUTCH-C...NTRIC-SLAVE-CYLINDER-FORD-MONDEO-GALAXY-MTX75-TRANSMISSION-1478806/232056688690 and hopefully I'll be able to get it to work in the T1 gearbox.

Dave.

I've not seen that type before, how does it work?

 

While the clutch pedal is being discussed, does anyone know if you can get a RHD pedal upgrade conversion for the clutch pedal?
You can get them from the states for LHD only. Supposed to make the clutch smoother to operate and prevents wear of the pedal where it attaches to the cable.

 

That's really cleaver. I like it.

 

I assume it has the bearing built in.
Oh you've got me thinking......

 

This is it from the front. I'll try and get a pic from the inside next time I work on it



It's very erm.....home made and might not be to your standard tho! :lol:

I like the idea of raising the pivot point but it's so tight in the tunnel I don't think that's an option and not sure my method will take the extra leverage required. Will have to look into smaller slaves or bigger master but not sure if there is a calculation I should be using to ensure the pedal doesn't become crazy stiff or can just stick some thing on and see how it works. Obviously the travel of the pushrod has to be the same as a mininun.

 

Ta for the pic - always helps to see how others have done it. Is that a single cct brake master cyl or something else ?

Re. cylinder sizes - if you have a regular type master & slave setup, the overall ratio depends on the bore diameter, so if you wanted to replicate the standard cable setup you would want a master and a slave of the same diameters, so that you push one end in by 1cm, the other end moves 1cm.

But say you had a 19mm master cyl and a 17mm slave cyl, and pushed the master cyl in by 1cm then that would move (using pi X dia X 1cm) = 3.14 X 1.9cm X 1cm = 5.96 cc's of fluid.

But 1cm of movement in the 17mm slave cyl = pi X 1.7cm X 1cm = 5.3 cc's

So 1cm push of the 19mm master cyl moves the 17mm slave cyl by 5.96 / 5.3 = 1.12 cm.


So that's how you can choose / work out your ratios.


Dave.

 

Ta for the pic - always helps to see how others have done it. Is that a single cct brake master cyl or something else ?

Re. cylinder sizes - if you have a regular type master & slave setup, the overall ratio depends on the bore diameter, so if you wanted to replicate the standard cable setup you would want a master and a slave of the same diameters, so that you push one end in by 1cm, the other end moves 1cm.

But say you had a 19mm master cyl and a 17mm slave cyl, and pushed the master cyl in by 1cm then that would move (using pi X dia X 1cm) = 3.14 X 1.9cm X 1cm = 5.96 cc's of fluid.

But 1cm of movement in the 17mm slave cyl = pi X 1.7cm X 1cm = 5.3 cc's

So 1cm push of the 19mm master cyl moves the 17mm slave cyl by 5.96 / 5.3 = 1.12 cm.

So that's how you can choose / work out your ratios.

Dave.

It's nuts a stock 25 MC from memory but it was so long ago I genuinely can't remember 100%

As for the calc that's brill tx. Didn't realise was as simple as the hat. I assumed if I went for a smaller diameter slave I'd end up with a rock hard slave.

 

Throwout bearing arrived today, just done a bit of measuring.

The bearing diameter matches up to the T1 multifinger clutch plate OK, but not the early type with the pad. So that's fine. Should in theory be OK with the 3 finger plate also (without the pad) but I don't have one to check against.

It has a 20mm stroke and displaces 11 cc's so that works out at 0.55 cc's per cm, which by my calculations means it's effectively 17.5mm internal diameter for hydraulic ratio calculation purposes. (0.55 / pi) Which is also OK.

One thing I didn't expect is that it has a light spring inside that keeps the bearing pushed out to it's limit when off the car, so when fitted the bearing will be in constant (light) contact with the pressure plate all the time, even with the pedal not depressed. It's obviously designed this way so shouldn't be a problem in use.

The bearing head itself is not directly connected to the piston within, the piston pushes onto it when the hydraulic pressure is there. The bearing head has some free movement (up to approx 2mm off centre) so will still be able to self centre if the alignment between bearing and clutch plate is slightly off. Which is good.

As for the rest, it will have to wait a few weeks till I'm ready to pull the motor, but it's looking hopeful.


Dave.

 

is also OK.

One thing I didn't expect is that it has a light spring inside that keeps the bearing pushed out to it's limit when off the car, so when fitted the bearing will be in constant (light) contact with the pressure plate all the time, even with the pedal not depressed. It's obviously designed this way so shouldn't be a problem in use.

.

Dave.

I didn't actually realise but the pull clutch on my sti motor is constantly engaged with the engine! I realised and contacted someone about it who said.....calm down its meant to........or words to that effect. So in terms of will it last being constably spinning hopefully as you say designed to.

.........however, we had a fiat van, what a complete turd, and doe to the way a couple of drivers left a small amount of pressure on the pedal whike driving meant it was slightly engaged a lot of the time. This eventually rubbed a hole in the fingers of the clutch pressure plate.