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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey, My friend the councillor gave me an idea of how to remove the beam earlier. Just want to know if there is any diagrams specific order I have to follow.
I looked in my haynes no diagrams or info I can see:confused:
The beam is looking sorry for itself, alot of surface rust and oil, could do with a good strip & coating of primer ;)
Thanks
Alex
 

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i well remember having my wife's MKII golf fall on my head when i was changing the rear shock absorbers...

:lol:

but really :eek: and :rolleyes:

taking the beam out is a piece of cake... reading the instructions on a computer screen or from your haynes ; nothing prepares you for the sheer ball-aching drudgery of working on cars covered with 40+ years of road grime and oil where all the fastenings haven't been undone since before i was born...

plenty of plusgas on EVERY bolt you're going to be undoing at least the night before... car positioned safely on stands or concrete blocks or a combination of the two... then it's just what i PM'd you... you can't really get it wrong as such ; there's no specific order of doing things... it's an analog process on an analog car ;)
 

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unless you want to do anything with the trailing arms, brakes, spindles e.t.c, I prefer to take out the stub axles and leave them connected to the brake pipes. this makes removing the beam easier (its lighter) and saves bleeding the brakes later.

-remove petrol tank
-disconnect; steering coupling, horn earth wire, long track rod from at least the spindle end but both is better, other end of the steering damper, spindle end of short track rod
-remove front shocks
-slacken grub screws that hold the trailing arms in place and pull the trailing arms off of the torsion bars
- undo the beam mounting bolts under the tank
-undo the 4 long beam bolts and get ready to catch the beam

I think thats it. I'm sure the procedure is described somewhere but cant find it now
 

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Is plusgas similar to WD40 ?
yeah.

no, plusgas is a proprietary dismantling agent whilst WD40 should be used exclusively for its water dispersing properties.

but, yeah.

i have been an air-cooled vw mechanic for over half a century and i would never recommend the use of WD40 as a releasing agent.

but, yeah.

etc.

etc.

etc.

get some of both... plusgas for freeing seized nuts and WD40 just for the smell :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Haha, looking through my 8 manuals! Luckily they offer diagrams of the beam taken apart, it is going to be some serious trial & error.
The thing is my dad never thinks I should have a go at anything, and that we should get the uncle to look when hes over next.
Any good reasons?
Alex
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hey,
It just occured to me, I dont have the foggiest what half of it looks like etc
Ok well what I dont know so far is:

* 1) Steering coupling
* 2)horn earth Wire
* 3)Track rod/long
* 4)Steering damper
* 5)Grub Screws(trailing arms)

Thankyou so much for all your help.
Alex
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Also the thing is my car is on axle stands, the front stands are on the beam, so I would use blocks where exactly?
Thanks
Alex
 

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Take the petrol tank out, basically undo every bolt under there that you can see. That's a start.

Either some blocks under the frame head just behind the beam or where there are 2 bolts about under the A post. Note- this is not a jacking point, so dont try it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks moby, anyone know where I can get this "plusgas" from?
Would WD40 be acceptable or is it not worth risking?
Ta
Alex
 

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no, plusgas is a proprietary dismantling agent whilst WD40 should be used exclusively for its water dispersing properties.

i would never recommend the use of WD40 as a releasing agent.

... plusgas for freeing seized nuts and WD40 just for the smell :lol:
See ^ ^ .
It doesn't have to be Plusgas, that's just one of the best. Any rust dissolving penetrant will help. WD40 will not help at all for freeing off seized rusty parts.
 

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Most auto shops have it.
Wd40 make a sperate release spray aswell. Havent compared it to plusgas so cant comment on its effectiveness.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
:lol: I should really learn to read better! and become more independent.
Will buy some off ebay if there is none at my local auto shop.
Ta
Alex
 

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Are you sure your beam even needs to come off? How bad is the rust? Is it properly rotten or just a bit of surface rust?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well there is alot of rust on the otherside (facing framehead)
There is a whole starting at appear and the base of the shock tower has had some bodge welding repair done which Im not sure I want to trust putting my bugs weight on it, after seeing it.
TBH after seeing sense I really need to start to learn for myself and not rely on the mech forum for every question I want to ask.
Alex
 

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Are you sure your beam even needs to come off?
'kin ell *muslam* don't you start :lol:

my advice to a 16 year old wanting to learn how to work on these funny old cars is that reading stuff on here and in haynes manuals is one thing, but there's no substitute for actually getting out there with his spanners and getting to know the thing... the car's new to him, the terminology's new to him and in my experience the best way to learn about these things is get them apart, get them clean, painted and lubed up, and then you can start making decisions about what to replace, and what to modify, and what to leave well alone... the novelty of crawling about underneath the thing with a lead lamp and a digital camera taking blurry pictures and asking "what does this do" on here is going to wear off pretty quickly, agreed ?

:group:
 
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