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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've always removed the transit paint on repro body panels, (as the suppliers always advise), it is easy to sand off nice smooth panels to bare metal, but have just fitted repro Beetle floor pan halves, (IGP), and the black transit coating is proving surprisingly difficult to remove, I think partly because of all the the indentations in the pressing, but even with a monster wire cup brush on my angle grinder, progress is slow. Any tips ? Or should I leave it in the areas where it is well & truly stuck ?
I'll be painting the whole floorpan in a Truck chassis paint which doesn't need any special prep or primer. This paint is very tough, not the nicest finish but I don't need it to be pretty.
 

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It's never a good idea to remove paint with a wire brush as it leaves a polished surface which does not provide for good primer adhesion. If you must use a wire brush, chemically clean the surface before priming.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It's never a good idea to remove paint with a wire brush as it leaves a polished surface which does not provide for good primer adhesion. If you must use a wire brush, chemically clean the surface before priming.
Yeah, thanks, I usually finish with coarse Wet & Dry and thinners or panel wipe. Wire brush usually quickly strips the bulk of the Transit coating, but am finding it is much tougher than I expected on these floor pan halves.
 

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Hi,

If you're not too worried about a 'pretty' finish I'd be tempted just to sand the remaining paint to smooth/cut-in the edges to the remainder of the floors, then chemically clean/tack pad the surfaces, prime, and paint.

If you want to progress with removing all traces of the transit paint I'd personally go with a heavy-duty/industrial paint stripper before chemically cleaning and prepping. I use this on all my BMX parts that have tough paint finishes on them before prepping for refinish/polish: https://breakwellspaints.co.uk/product/heavy-duty-paint-stripper/

Works really very well. No effort (other than cleaning off the obvious gooey mixture) and get lovely clean bare metal to work with. The product in the link is not your normal weak modern Nitromors, which is not the stuff-of-old, it really is a proper paint stripper as us 'older ones' remember. There are other 'industrial' spec paint strippers around (if you don't want 5L worth, but they do seem to be getting a little harder to find now days.

Either way, good luck.
 

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You could try some heat? I've just dug loads of filler out of a beetle. Picture the rover from father ted, fixed using filler. Looked like someone had tried to straighten the quarters with a ball pein hammer. After trying a few ways to remove it I found the quickest and cleanest is a heat gun and chisel to carve the softened filler off.
 
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If the transit paint is e coated then I would leave it. If not I would sand it off. I remember sanding it off the pan half’s on my last build and it was very tedious. If you don’t there is a risk you don’t get good paint adhesion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If the transit paint is e coated then I would leave it. If not I would sand it off. I remember sanding it off the pan half’s on my last build and it was very tedious. If you don’t there is a risk you don’t get good paint adhesion.
Thanks. I don't think this is e-coated, the panel looks like it has just been dipped in the transit paint, you can see the runs in it :
Home appliance Automotive tire Gas Electronic device Major appliance


In some places, I could scratch it off with my fingernail, but in other places it is stubbornly resisting.
I'll persevere, because I don't think it offers much protection, (even just in transit).
 

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Yeah. It’s crap. If you don’t get it off your paint might flake. I remember it being a pain to remove and red fingers when I was finished!
 
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I remember years ago the ladies on Girls garage, or whatever it was, did a segment on transit primer. If paint thinners on a cloth made a light coloured cloth black then the rpimer needed removing. If, however, the cloth remained clean of paint then it was 'e' primer and safe to leave on but obv's still needed scuffing.
On difficult stuff I use proper chem stripper available to bodyshops as the stuff is Halfrauds will be shite and household strippers are unlikely to do anything. I also like the strip discs as although they don't remove metal they do seem to leave a scuffed surface but even so I follow up with 80 grit emery cloth.

The choice is yours ;)
 
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