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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thankyou to everyone who answered my question about the engine seizing up less than 48 hours after getting it from the garage. I wanted to know where I stood in terms of should they take any resposibility after fixing an oil change:

The concensus, try and be as amicable as possible and and hope for the best. So now I have to buy a replacement engine, new, reconditioned or second hand and the garage will fit it for free, though it may have nothing to do with them they're doing it on good faith.....so its not all that bad though still damn annoying...

Right...the question:

Where best can I get a second hand or reconditioned engine, I'm thinking a second hand one at a maximum of 350 pounds, and a reconditioned maximum of maybe 800 or a bit less. Be great to get a 2000cc but probably have to be sensible and get another 1600cc.

Any ideas would be great, obviously have a seized up engine to swap, dont know a great deal about anything yet, pretty new to it all so the more help the better.

I've sent an email to retrodubs.co.uk

to see what they have at the moment.

Cheers from Jon (Looking forward to the winter to strip out the interior)
 

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£845 will get you a NEW (not Reconditioned) Genuine VW 1600 engine from GSF.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ooooh...brand spanking new!!! ? ? now that would be nice.

Cool, I do like the idea of a brand spanking new engine, I'm guessing that price includes trading in the old seized up engine, do you know if the price goes up because it is seized up?

Any more ideas welcome?
 

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i got a 1600cc of ebay for like 160 quid i think. Its never given me any trouble.

That was a bit of a gamble as i bought it unseen, try and check it out first.
 

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New engines from GSF are sold outright, no need for a reconditionable trade-in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Excellent...

like the idea of the new engine, especially as I'm pretty sure GSF have a store in greenford,

I might wait a while though and see what comes up on ebay, especially as some people might be upgrading their engines over the winter,

If anyone knows anyone thinknig of boosting their engine and have a 1600cc engine they might wanna sell, let me know :smurf:
 

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I might wait a while though and see what comes up on ebay, ...
A few words of realism ...

eBay, scrapyards, small ads etc are a great source of cheap engines, as long as:

1. You have enough experience to inspect and assess them and/or don't care because you are looking for something to either rebuild yourself or to keep your vehicle running for a few months whilst you rebuild what you already have.

2. You are planning to remove/refit the engine yourself.

In your case you are getting the installation free this time because of the unfortunate circumstances of the previous engines demise. Next time, you will have to do it yourself or pay someone else to fit it. If you aren't able to do it yourself, then do think about the costs involved.

What makes sense is different for everybody - I'd be happy to pick up an engine for £100 and stick it in and try it. If it lasted 6 months I'd be happy, a year I'd be ecstatic. If it died after three months, it wouldn't owe me anything.

In your circumstances, it might be more sensible to look for an engine in a known state, with a guarantee, either new or 'factory' recon.

Hope this helps - just don't want to see you make an expensive mistake.

Good luck, however you choose to go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
thankyou...

Thanks for the advice,

will probably go down the new, reconitioned route then. Plus if I get it from GSF and I will be able to learn a fair bit taking the old one to pieces in the future. Plus steal bits from it if I need to, or just sell it on.

Cheers

From Jon
 

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post in the items wanted forum on here

there are plenty of trustworthy folks on here whose word I would rely on - if they said it had been a good engine, I'd believe them

no guarantees obviously, but something good might turn up for not too much £££. Personally, I wouldn't buy one off ebay.

I got one from Elite - not too expensive, but their customer service is variable to say the least and they are dreadful at sorting out some problems. Personally, I couldn't recommend them, but my engine's been OK.

No idea what the spec is on the GSF engines - worth finding out and posting it up here maybe - see what the experts on here make of it ?
 

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I'd stay away from cheap recons and go for the new unit from GSF.
I heard VEGE are now supplying brand new engines that they assemble and carry the european VEGE warranty also outright purchase no exchange.
 

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CheekyMonkey said:
No idea what the spec is on the GSF engines - worth finding out and posting it up here maybe - see what the experts on here make of it ?
GSF advertise : Genuine VW Mexico factory built New 1600 twin port engines - That's enough spec for me.
 

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CheekyMonkey said:
post in the items wanted forum on here

there are plenty of trustworthy folks on here whose word I would rely on - if they said it had been a good engine, I'd believe them

no guarantees obviously, but something good might turn up for not too much £££. Personally, I wouldn't buy one off ebay.

I got one from Elite - not too expensive, but their customer service is variable to say the least and they are dreadful at sorting out some problems. Personally, I couldn't recommend them, but my engine's been OK.

No idea what the spec is on the GSF engines - worth finding out and posting it up here maybe - see what the experts on here make of it ?
The mexican engines are built using cast cranks,cast rods,cast flywheels so not the same as the original german units some of the crankcases are dubious but a better bet than something built on a clapped out machined to death old case-IMHO
 

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You'll need all the tinware and ancillaries off your old engine in any case
 

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The thing to realise about the Mexican engines, is that they are low compression units. That means they have a 6.6:1 compression ratio and produce 46bhp in stock form. They are best fitted to 1200/1300 transmissions. This does not mean they are no good, as they run cooler and are basically understressed. The various "cast" components are not a big deal and the cast crank actually means that it is lighter and less likely to flex at higher revs.
 

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Peter said:
The thing to realise about the Mexican engines, is that they are low compression units. That means they have a 6.6:1 compression ratio and produce 46bhp in stock form. They are best fitted to 1200/1300 transmissions. This does not mean they are no good, as they run cooler and are basically understressed. The various "cast" components are not a big deal and the cast crank actually means that it is lighter and less likely to flex at higher revs.
Cast cranks do flex and they also snap in half -this is the reason why VW decided to have an expensive forged unit made in the first place.
 

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Paul VSM said:
Cast cranks do flex and they also snap in half -this is the reason why VW decided to have an expensive forged unit made in the first place.
True, but casting now can be much more accurate than 40 years ago, the stress and dynamic analysis that can be done now is way in advance of 40 years ago too.

It's also much cheaper, part of the reason why you can buy a whole engine for less than a grand.

If it's an engine you're going to modify and rev to 5000+ then go for a forged and balanced crank, but for standard stuff a properly designed cast crank is fine. They're quite common in production engines now.

In the same way, car manufacturers now can produce a bodyshell to basically "machining" tolerances :eek:
 

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I'm sure the new engines are good to go for plenty of trouble free miles
although I have seen a few of the new engines fitted to the mexican beetles fail within 10000 miles all down to low oil pressure caused by faulty hydraulic tappets and undersize cranks.Also seen a cheap recon with a reground cast crank(snapped) 2mm line bore,2.5mm thrust cut !
dodgy shim fitted behind the bearing shoulder,cast flywheel with a hairline crack running from the centre hole half way out ,right through to the clutch surface.This engine was just over 12months old with 5k on it just out of warranty
 

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The cast cranks have been quite popular for race applications where the rules don't allow counter-weighting. Clearly, forged cranks are stronger and, in addition to what Gareth has said, I think the 'Japanese eithic' of building to "incept dates" applies.
 

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Whatever.

The cast components made for VW are made to save money so I doubt state of the art castings techniques are used.
 
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