The area around the brake fluid reservoir looks like it's rotted right through so I'd recommend repairing that area at least.
Personally I'd repair all the rust and repaint. The overspray on the bulkhead suggests it's been painted before, so not original.

 

The area around the brake fluid reservoir looks like it's rotted right through so I'd recommend repairing that area at least.
Personally I'd repair all the rust and repaint. The overspray on the bulkhead suggests it's been painted before, so not original.

The wings have been resprayed along with the bottom of the doors at some point. I removed the brake fluid reservoir and it’s ok under there, far from perfect but ok, I’d rather preserve it for now, I can replace metal anytime in the future.

 

I use Bilt Hamber on the Beetle and my T25 - Hydrate 80 followed by S50. The reviews speak for themselves:

Dynax-S50 - Best Cavity Wax Tested - Bilt Hamber

Hi, Our Dynax anti-corrosion cavity wax range has been a big hit with our customers. We offer three products in this range - Dynax-UB, Dynax-UC and Dynax-s50. The range offers a sulphonate rich waxy film which provides unparalleled protection to car underbodies. Unlike traditional paints and...

bilthamber.com

 

I’ll take a look thanks 👍

 

Can't vouch for the Lanogard stuff, but I'm tempted to try it.
In the past, I've used VW Cavity wax to help slow the spread of existing rust in seams etc., it is much like Waxoil, but not as 'messy', because when it 'sets' it is much harder, however, it is not cheap.

 

Does it set clear or is it coloured? Thanks 🙏

 

Dinitrol 1000 clear, or ML if you can live with the light brown color.

DINITROL | Products

www.dinitrol.com

 

Bilt Hamber....

 

WHS 100% ^^^ Alternative is Hammerite Rust Remover Gel sold in Halfords. Equally as effective at removing rust but more expensive and unpleasant to use, and can stain.
Forget the expensive 'magic' paints - use HMG or similar industrial epoxy primer and topcoat, observing overcoating times rigidly unless sanding between coats. In my longest test yet I have exposed HMG primer (2 coats brushed onto bare metal, no topcoat) outdoors for two years in a coastal and a further nine years near-coastal. The coating is only just beginning to show signs of failure.

 

Thanks all, plenty of good suggestions there 👍

 

Isn't Bilt Hamber moustash wax? 😅
I assume hydrate80 is Phosphoric acid acid by another name? Ie Krust etc. Stuff that goes plack/purple?

 

I personally rub back as much rust off to metal, and then use inexpensive hammerite Krust to convert and treat any pitted area b4 prime and paint.

 

Lanoguard is very good in my experience - the only issue being that it doesnt really set/dry in the same way as other treatments so could be a bit messy in contact areas unless you are sparing with it and rag off the excess.

I plan on using it on the underneath / concealed areas of the 67 type 1 that l am currently working on.

Previously used on my working 4x4's to good effect.

The MOD use it for rust prevention in storage apparantly.

Lots of stuff on youtube about the product.

ACF50 is another good product.