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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all, I just wanted to ask opinions on how to treat some of the surface rust in my spare wheel well without painting it as I’d like to keep it as original as possible where visible. The underside I’ll sand, Jenolite, rust encapsulate and then paint with chassis black.

I’m tempted to rub it back lightly just to remove any bubbles, flakes and dirt, hoover it, disc brake cleaner it and then chuck a load of Ankor Wax on it.

A friend has suggested this Lanolin based stuff that looks good as an alternative.


Any advice welcome 👍
 

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The area around the brake fluid reservoir looks like it's rotted right through so I'd recommend repairing that area at least.
Personally I'd repair all the rust and repaint. The overspray on the bulkhead suggests it's been painted before, so not original.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The area around the brake fluid reservoir looks like it's rotted right through so I'd recommend repairing that area at least.
Personally I'd repair all the rust and repaint. The overspray on the bulkhead suggests it's been painted before, so not original.
The wings have been resprayed along with the bottom of the doors at some point. I removed the brake fluid reservoir and it’s ok under there, far from perfect but ok, I’d rather preserve it for now, I can replace metal anytime in the future.
 

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Can't vouch for the Lanogard stuff, but I'm tempted to try it.
In the past, I've used VW Cavity wax to help slow the spread of existing rust in seams etc., it is much like Waxoil, but not as 'messy', because when it 'sets' it is much harder, however, it is not cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Can't vouch for the Lanogard stuff, but I'm tempted to try it.
In the past, I've used VW Cavity wax to help slow the spread of existing rust in seams etc., it is much like Waxoil, but not as 'messy', because when it 'sets' it is much harder, however, it is not cheap.
Does it set clear or is it coloured? Thanks 🙏
 

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Bilt Hamber....
WHS 100% ^^^ Alternative is Hammerite Rust Remover Gel sold in Halfords. Equally as effective at removing rust but more expensive and unpleasant to use, and can stain.
Forget the expensive 'magic' paints - use HMG or similar industrial epoxy primer and topcoat, observing overcoating times rigidly unless sanding between coats. In my longest test yet I have exposed HMG primer (2 coats brushed onto bare metal, no topcoat) outdoors for two years in a coastal and a further nine years near-coastal. The coating is only just beginning to show signs of failure.
 

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Lanoguard is very good in my experience - the only issue being that it doesnt really set/dry in the same way as other treatments so could be a bit messy in contact areas unless you are sparing with it and rag off the excess.

I plan on using it on the underneath / concealed areas of the 67 type 1 that l am currently working on.

Previously used on my working 4x4's to good effect.

The MOD use it for rust prevention in storage apparantly.

Lots of stuff on youtube about the product.

ACF50 is another good product.
 
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