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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am about to embark on swapping between my two engines in the @79 Bay, again.
To date, I have with difficulty (and much bruising) managed to get the nut for this bolt on and off. Doable with single carb.
I have now fitted IDF 40's and found it very, very difficult to get the nut into position, without dropping it. (much swearing).
I have made use of other family members with thinner arms; I still ended up having to do it.
Painful, time consuming and frustrating.

Has anyone tried using an Allen Cap head bolt, instead of the usual D-bolt, into a nut secured to the engine casing (as per near side)?
If so how did you secure the nut to the casing?

I cannot be the only one who has encountered this.

Hoping someone has a solution.

ATB,
Neil
 

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The Allen cap bolt through from starter motor into a captive nut in the engine casing would work, (cap bolt due to the lugs on starter for the D-bolt).
The captive nut on the left top is pressed into the casing, you would have to open the hole on the right hand side to fit one there, (so engine out again) :
Captive Nut for Twin Port Crankcase: 111101135 | Heritage Parts Centre UK
Household hardware Cylinder Metal Tin Nickel


The method suggested by GARRICK.CLARK is easier.
 

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I used to find a major part of the hassle was the bolt slipping back towards the starter whilst trying to start the nut on it.

Here's what I find make it easier - Before fitting run the nut up and down the threads enough so you can spin it easily all the way with your fingertips, so you only need a spanner right at the end. If required wire brush the threads on the bolt and consider a brand new nut so it spins on super easy.
Then when fitting the D bolt through the starter & bellhousing, slap some Blu-tak under and around the head of the D bolt. This gives it enough friction to stop it sliding away from you whilst you get the nut threaded on and spun down.

Dave.
 

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I used to find a major part of the hassle was the bolt slipping back towards the starter whilst trying to start the nut on it.

Here's what I find make it easier - Before fitting run the nut up and down the threads enough so you can spin it easily all the way with your fingertips, so you only need a spanner right at the end. If required wire brush the threads on the bolt and consider a brand new nut so it spins on super easy.
Then when fitting the D bolt through the starter & bellhousing, slap some Blu-tak under and around the head of the D bolt. This gives it enough friction to stop it sliding away from you whilst you get the nut threaded on and spun down.

Dave.
WHS^^^
I wrap masking tape around the shank so the bolt is a firm push fit into the bell housing and use a ratchet ring spanner to finally tighten.
 

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A big magnet works too. 1 off an old magnetic nut n bolt tray is what I use. Also a good idea to take the bolt out and run the nut down the thread so that it goes on with your fingers, spanner for the last few turns.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thank you all for your replies.
Engines swapped out successfully. I managed to fit the standard nut this time.

Tape to shaft of D-bolt, with cleaned threads.
There is no room in this van to either fit the manifold or carb after engine installed but did get extra room by removing Air filter (and threaded rods).

I have ordered the captive nut to have and will see if I want to fit for the next time.

ATB,
Neil
 
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