Volkszone Forum banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
386 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Having broken 3(cheap) wheel braces trying to get the front wheels off - bought a proper heavy duty one - and the wheel bolts were still a b*tch to get off!

What is the recommended method of fitting them? copper slip, some other 'product'?

Thanks :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,872 Posts
I use a tiny amount of WD40, and a light smear of Copperease. And then torque them up correctly (well, maybe an extra couple of lbs for good measure). Never have any trouble getting them off. You'd be surprised at how little pressure is needed when doing them up, and removing them, when they're done to the correct torque. Nothing like as much as garages do with an air wrench. And if I ever have a garage change the wheels for any reason, then I get home, undo them, and torque them up correctly.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,813 Posts
I just use a smear of waxoil on the threads, and on the shoulder, but Buzzy is right, the most important thing to do, is torque them correctly. Overtightening is the most common reason for them to seize.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,832 Posts
All true. use copper grease, only a little though. If your drums are horribly rusty, invest in a cheap electric rattle gun to get them off. It will also do flywheel nuts without needing a brace and rear hub nuts. Just don't tighten anything with seals behind them with it, namely the flywheel and the rear hub nuts!

Cost about £20 from Woolworths :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,068 Posts
I just use a really big wheel brace, and then use a piece of scaffold pipe on the end of that to get them off.

I had mine "torqued up correctly" by a "Professional" who claimed that they were all to the right torque - and the wheel came loose and almost fell off. Tighten them up as tight as you can... its better to have to fight with them the next time than to have a wheel fall off, and you die.

Just my two penneth worth.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21,202 Posts
I normally dribble a little bit of oil on the studs just to stop the corroding.

Plus if you take the wheels off and check your brakes every so often, that'll help stop them siezing on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,620 Posts
Icky said:
I just use a really big wheel brace, and then use a piece of scaffold pipe on the end of that to get them off.

I had mine "torqued up correctly" by a "Professional" who claimed that they were all to the right torque - and the wheel came loose and almost fell off. Tighten them up as tight as you can... its better to have to fight with them the next time than to have a wheel fall off, and you die.

Just my two penneth worth.
Back in about early Sep. 2002 my front N/S wheel came off rather abruptly whilst driving! Luckily i was only doing perhaps 10mph at the time and was just about to turn out of my parents road (on a quiet minor road). As i came up to the turning that particular wheel felt strange and was making a knocking noise (i partly realised what was about to happen :( ). Within a second or so it had come off sending my beetle"s front N/S brake drum crashing onto the ground. I absolutely shit myself at the time. I remember seeing the wheel which had just come off go bouncing down the road i was about to turn into :eek: (just like in one of the Herbie films) . Could'nt believe what had just happened at the time. Luckily i managed to bolt the escapeee wheel back on and the car limped the 50 metres or so back to my parents driveway.
Unfortunately because of the impact of the wheel flying off and the drum smashing into the tarmac the front nearside wing was completely totalled and had been partly ripped off of the front quarter. The front quarter had also been bent inwards slightly due to the impact. Spent abount next 4 days repairing the area. Trashed damaged wing, repaired the bent quarter with a welded repair, welded some new captive nuts in, fitted new wing, some careful filing and flating to get it perfect and then a small bit of spraying in that area. Managed to do a nice repair and you'd never know it had even happened. Was'nt any structural damage either, thank god. Cost me about 90 pounds to repair which considering what could have happened was'nt bad at all. I'm still surprised that the drum did'nt crack or recieve a hairline crack at all.
It was an inconvenience to have to repair the car in this way considering that i'd just got it looking really nice!! But i thank my lucky stars that it did happen then and not when roaring down the motorway as my chances of still being here now would be very slim!! :) Would'nt have been a nice way to die.
I've always been careful to make sure that my wheel nuts were properly tightened & can only think that i'd done some quick work and had forgotten to tighten them properly. (i don't think someone had it in for me :eek: ).
Needless to say from that day forth i've always been overly paranoid with making sure that they are tight & check them on a regular basis, not gonna let that happen again!!!
I tighten them up really tight by hand applying a lot of strength after first applying some copper grease to the threads to stop them from siezing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,283 Posts
al_kaholik said:
All true. use copper grease, only a little though. If your drums are horribly rusty, invest in a cheap electric rattle gun to get them off. It will also do flywheel nuts without needing a brace and rear hub nuts. Just don't tighten anything with seals behind them with it, namely the flywheel and the rear hub nuts!

Cost about £20 from Woolworths :)
sorry like are you saying a £20 quid, plug in to your lighter scoket electric impact gun removed your flywheel nut??

either it was lose ot im a silly bugger as ive just shelled out on a 450quid 150L 3.5HP motor'd compressor and a 120quid Mac Tools impcat gun for the same job......

ill do some painting with the compressor too like, so all is not lost.....

i always smear a small bit of copper slip on me wheel bolt/nut threads, makes it 1000% easier to swap the wheel road side if you get a puncture etc, also if youy run alloys with rusty un-painted drumsdish hubs, you might wanna put abit on the back of your wheels as somtimes, if the back of the alloys corroding, it'll seize to the your hub!

one other great tip is to use a small half inch brush in your copper slip tub, as it gets fuking everywhere if you use your hands and dont have a cloth at the ready.....que pissed off mums getting copperslip all over the couch.....hahahahahha
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top