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No no no no no. Did I say no? :)

But seriously, that's way too much cam for that engine, it will make less horespower than stock and have no torque. To use it you would need to upgrade the heads/carbs/exhaust at the same time to make use of it and hence make more power.

thanks.
tom.
 

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hi while on this topic wht does the 125 or 110 etc mean on the cam am i right in gueesing its the movement of the centre line or am i completly wrong.
dave
 

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The engle "number" is just engle's own cam number, it dosen't mean anything, other than referring to their cam specs. (duration, lift etc.) See here for details. http://207.178.130.99/catalog/old_catalog.php

Basically, if it's an otherwise stock engine, use an engle 100 if it's going in a bus, or a 110 if you want a bit more poke in a beetle. Don't go any bigger than a 110 unless you're going to be doing more serious tuning (carbs, exhaust, heads, bigger CC's etc.)

Dave.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thanks everyone! as for the rest of the engine its going to be

1600tp
balanced crank rods etc
lightened flywheel
40 kads
stock heads
possibly ratio rockers

sounds like i should go with the 110?

thanks again! :)
 

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CAMPER DOM said:
sounds like i should go with the 110?
That's the right one for the job.

If your 125 is in good nick, put it on ebay.

Dave.
 

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www.SS9Design.co.uk
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110 will be perfect. you could do worse than invest in a copy of the first issue of ultra vw mag (yes, there are a few left via www.ultravw.com !), which covered cylinder head porting and upgrades for just that type of engine. with ported heads, kads and a decent 'zorst, your 1600 will pull hard from idle to 5500-5700rpm (assuming you do the heads well!), and if you do your best to keep the revs limited to 5kish (it'll be hard in 1st, trust me!), that motor will do you proud.
i build a lot of similar spec motors for friends etc. and they all love them to bits, and cover plenty of daily driven miles, to boot.
 
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