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Window mechanism repair

689 Views 7 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  crispies
Not sure if this will last but was planning on sanding clean then using jb weld. Assuming cogged wheel was originally press fitted onto shaft.
No part number so assuming not oem too.
Gas Audio equipment Art Circle Wood


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Not sure if JB Weld would hold it.
I'd be thinking of drilling through the cog and shaft for a scroll pin, or if the cog is steel, a spot weld between cog and shaft.
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JB weld or similar will not hold. Depending on the materials they are and whether hardened or not, which the cog is probably hardened, then welding or brazing would be the best idea.
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cheers had to jb weld as temporary fix but agree will weld long term solution. Just packed it with loads of grease as booked into a local car show this weekend ...
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Managed to source a used german winder, have fitted a good used 1/4 window and refitted all felts, scrapers as they are quite new too but window gets tight when near the closing position. I think 1/4 felt is orientated correctly and frame doesnt appear bent but how can I tell if frame is actually bent as its naturally curved. Before I strip it all out again and refit original 1/4 have i fitted felts incorrectly as when its pushed up by hand it is binding on something....
The window is dead flat, unlike modern cars, and so the door is designed to house the flat glass in a curved frame. The window runners, bailey channel and door fram runner are all straight. If you used the CS screws to mount the main felt then check the screwed all the way in.
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If the top ends of the channels haven't been crushed (making one or both of them too tight), it could be that the channels are not perfectly parallel, (too close to each other at the top). The rear channel only really has one position, so the 1/4 light is suspect.
There is a tag at the top of the 1/4 light frame which gets screwed to the door, the tag has an oval hole to allow forward/rearward adjustment, (not a lot, but should be enough).
However, the tag often gets bent when removing and re-fitting the 1/4 light, leading to misalignment, and as you mention that this is not the original 1/4 light, I would check there first.
Often the 1/4 light frame is difficult to fit into the door properly, as the rubber around the front edge can make it difficult to 'seat' the frame into the door, (especially if the rubber has become hard due to age). I've even had to use clamps to get a 1/4 light to go into the right place in the door. Lubrication can help, but it will always be a bit of a wrestling match.
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If the top ends of the channels haven't been crushed (making one or both of them too tight), it could be that the channels are not perfectly parallel, (too close to each other at the top). The rear channel only really has one position, so the 1/4 light is suspect.
There is a tag at the top of the 1/4 light frame which gets screwed to the door, the tag has an oval hole to allow forward/rearward adjustment, (not a lot, but should be enough).
However, the tag often gets bent when removing and re-fitting the 1/4 light, leading to misalignment, and as you mention that this is not the original 1/4 light, I would check there first.
Often the 1/4 light frame is difficult to fit into the door properly, as the rubber around the front edge can make it difficult to 'seat' the frame into the door, (especially if the rubber has become hard due to age). I've even had to use clamps to get a 1/4 light to go into the right place in the door. Lubrication can help, but it will always be a bit of a wrestling match.
cheers our 1/4 slides in real easy even with new to our beetle used frame, didnt think about the adjustment on 1/4 top screw. Will measure original and replacement 1/4s.
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