Sorry to bring this up once more, i know its covered lots just after fresh ideas. Am after low down grunt and would like to cruise at 65-70. Any spec of your set ups welcome, many thanks for info.
jon&gaylekarmann71
Get yourself a stroker and never look back. I've got a 2332 in a split bus and it is fabulous. And even here in Spain it doesn't overheat - but had to make sure that all cooling was as stock, plus an additional external oil cooler.
The limitation however it the bus itself, or maybe the steering box with a load of play - I can't cruise at 120km (approx. 70 to 80mph ish) for any long periods of time - too much stress on me and the bus. Took it up to 140km/h the other day, and although it had no problems getting there, I could only maintain that speed for about 10 seconds - sweaty palms and a racing heart rate brought an end to that. Fitting a pair of adjustable Konis Classics to the front end has helped stabilise it a lot at high speed. Next step is to do the same at the back plus fitting yet another refurbed steering box.
Make sure that your suspension, steering etc is as it should be before investing in a stroker, otherwise you won't be able to use it. However, you may have to accept that due to 100 year old steering technology, narrow high profile tyres and a bread-bin shape to the bus, it's never going to keep up with modern traffic. Would be interested to hear from those who's bus can??
The limitation however it the bus itself, or maybe the steering box with a load of play - I can't cruise at 120km (approx. 70 to 80mph ish) for any long periods of time - too much stress on me and the bus. Took it up to 140km/h the other day, and although it had no problems getting there, I could only maintain that speed for about 10 seconds - sweaty palms and a racing heart rate brought an end to that. Fitting a pair of adjustable Konis Classics to the front end has helped stabilise it a lot at high speed. Next step is to do the same at the back plus fitting yet another refurbed steering box.
Make sure that your suspension, steering etc is as it should be before investing in a stroker, otherwise you won't be able to use it. However, you may have to accept that due to 100 year old steering technology, narrow high profile tyres and a bread-bin shape to the bus, it's never going to keep up with modern traffic. Would be interested to hear from those who's bus can??
I'm currently exploring engine upgrades for my bug (currently 1641 2x34ICTs Mondo zorst) which keeps up with traffic and goes along quite nicely.
I'd like a bit more low down grunt, delivered around 2-4K max. I know there is no substitute for cubes but careful choice of cams, fueling and head work is just as important in the build spec so the engine will have the characteristics I want - which is low down grunt with lots of usable torque, rather than a hi-po screamer peaking at 7K.
Cubes is one thing but overall spec and state of tune and compatibility of all the important components is critical. Throwing together a random set of performance parts may not achieve the goal?
And there's always the temptation to go up a spec level for just a few quid more, I'll resist where possible and try to stay on message and budget wherever possible.
I'm talking to friends who know (not talking to loads of folk as there'llbe way too many opinions) and will decide who gets to build or spec the final ingredients.
I'd like a bit more low down grunt, delivered around 2-4K max. I know there is no substitute for cubes but careful choice of cams, fueling and head work is just as important in the build spec so the engine will have the characteristics I want - which is low down grunt with lots of usable torque, rather than a hi-po screamer peaking at 7K.
Cubes is one thing but overall spec and state of tune and compatibility of all the important components is critical. Throwing together a random set of performance parts may not achieve the goal?
And there's always the temptation to go up a spec level for just a few quid more, I'll resist where possible and try to stay on message and budget wherever possible.
I'm talking to friends who know (not talking to loads of folk as there'llbe way too many opinions) and will decide who gets to build or spec the final ingredients.
Both those engines will cruise at 65-70 no bother, trouble comes when you want to go up hill at the same speed and the 1776 hasn't got enough torque to do that. I've had 1600, 1641, 1776 and 1955 engines, the 1955 was incredible, not in the same league as the other 3. 2110 Stroker every time dude that's where the torque comes from and that's wot you need.
I have 2110 in my westie bay fully loaded makes no difference on hills just keeps pulling, its mated to a 2liter 091 box the torque is great fk8 cam, small cnc super mag heads,40mm dells full MSD ignition never stops making me grin,i fitted an oil cooler with a thermostat on the oil filter head, and its never needed the extra cooler, I have all the parts now to go EFI but it runs so well I don't really want to swop over,
Daz
Daz
You can run what you want but if you don't change your box to a suitable one you will be wasting money.
I had an 1835cc with a 1300 box and it accelerated well but was rubbish at cruising, where as my 1776cc with 1500 box was far better to drive with.
For the money I'd go for a 1776 with twin carbs and a 1500 box. If budget allows a 1914cc is also good.
I'm getting a 2276cc put in my bug but it's only for fun
I had an 1835cc with a 1300 box and it accelerated well but was rubbish at cruising, where as my 1776cc with 1500 box was far better to drive with.
For the money I'd go for a 1776 with twin carbs and a 1500 box. If budget allows a 1914cc is also good.
I'm getting a 2276cc put in my bug but it's only for fun
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