[Garrick.Clark]

If that input shaft hasn't been cleaned, then it's good to go. It's too clean to be a leaker.

 

[Garrick.Clark]

Thing is, there's no point fitting a new clutch and refitting the engine if there is case compression and end float. Also some cases don't have a good oil return at the bottom of the case parting line and oil pools and sits at the bottom inner part of the seal. If/when you split the case an oil return mod can be done. New cases have this mod built into it

 

[flobber]

Thing is, there's no point fitting a new clutch and refitting the engine if there is case compression and end float. Also some cases don't have a good oil return at the bottom of the case parting line and oil pools and sits at the bottom inner part of the seal. If/when you split the case an oil return mod can be done. New cases have this mod built into it

Aye, I wont buy a clutch until I've at least checked the oil seal and o-ring. Splitting the case is not something that I can easily do in my current situation (or ever done). If there's nothing obviously wrong with the seals then I may just take a chance on refitting and hope my problems are related to the clutch release bearing - yes i know it's not ideal at all but it's a chance I will probably take.

 

[Garrick.Clark]

I believe it's gunna be a combinations of a worn engine as a whole.
Good luck with it though.

 

[callookoval]

Yeah, I'd agree with Garrick there. That amount of residue behind the flywheel is indicative of another problem - not related to your throwout bearing going out but likely related to your clutch slip. Combination of the two and maybe other niggles causing your issue.

 

[flobber]

Finally got the flywheel off. What a mess:

That's an awful lot of oil, will replace the oil seal I took out and moved on to check the O ring on the flywheel and lo and behold there isn't one installed 😱 The indentation is there so with any luck I might get away with this one, though I'm not completely discounting a leak from my worn engine, but that's quite a part to be missing. Flywheel snout was fine no discernible wear. Will do those tests Garrick Clark suggested over the weekend.

 

[Garrick.Clark]

Use petrol and a tooth brush to clean that goo off. I see white silicone too, so the issue has been there before you've owned this vehicle. The missing O ring is a biggie though. And a good find.
Try using a double lip seal

 

[flobber]

Use petrol and a tooth brush to clean that goo off. I see white silicone too, so the issue has been there before you've owned this vehicle. The missing O ring is a biggie though. And a good find.
Try using a double lip seal

I don’t see any oil seal or o ring with a double lip as an option looking at various sites.
What do you mean?

 

[Garrick.Clark]

There are double lip flywheel Seals various places have them, try cool air. The O ring in the back of fly wheel will be just an O ring.

 

[flobber]

Ok so the o ring you are referring to thanks. Double lip for that sounds to me like that ita a tube construction? I don’t see anything else available that’s not like that, coolair incl

 

[Bada Ben]

Ok so the o ring you are referring to thanks. Double lip for that sounds to me like that ita a tube construction? I don’t see anything else available that’s not like that, coolair incl

No, an 'O' ring has no lips at all.
Garrick.Clark is referring to the Main crankshaft/flywheel oil seal, the standard one has one lip, there are others with 2 lips : Type 1 Crankshaft Main Oil Seal - Silicone Dual Lip - Cool Air VW
Hope that helps

 

[flobber]

It’s been a while, unfortunately work got in the way, but I finally got round to cleaning it all up and started to install the new double lipped oil seal. I haven’t put it all way in yet as I was quite surprised at how easy it was going in. It’s about flush with the edge now and I can’t push it in with my thumbs anymore (I do have the installation tool which I will use for those last few mm).My question is: is it normal for it to push in so easily even with the smear of oil on the outer surface? All the videos I’ve watched ppl either seem to have to use the tool or the old seal with a mallet to drive it in much earlier

 

[Bada Ben]

It’s been a while, unfortunately work got in the way, but I finally got round to cleaning it all up and started to install the new double lipped oil seal. I haven’t put it all way in yet as I was quite surprised at how easy it was going in. It’s about flush with the edge now and I can’t push it in with my thumbs anymore (I do have the installation tool which I will use for those last few mm).My question is: is it normal for it to push in so easily even with the smear of oil on the outer surface? All the videos I’ve watched ppl either seem to have to use the tool or the old seal with a mallet to drive it in much earlier

The Silicone flywheel oil seals are easier to push-in than the stock rubber seals, because the little ribs on the outer edge are softer.
Instead of oil, you could use a smear of gasket sealant like Blue Hylomar or Curil K2 etc.
Did you also get a new O ring for inside the flywheel ?

 

[keekster64]

I’d be measuring your existing clutch before ordering a new, make sure it’s not a 200mm clutch. Also if your replacing the flywheel oil seal I recommend you do NOT buy the seals available from the major Vw suppliers. I buy viton rubber seals these days from simply bearings. They are superior quality and don’t leak.

FKM Rotary Shaft Seals: Single & Double Lip FKM Rubber Shaft Seals

simplybearings.co.uk

 

[flobber]

The Silicone flywheel oil seals are easier to push-in than the stock rubber seals, because the little ribs on the outer edge are softer.
Instead of oil, you could use a smear of gasket sealant like Blue Hylomar or Curil K2 etc.
Did you also get a new O ring for inside the flywheel ?

ok, thanks, that’s somewhat reassuring. I’ll get some blue hylomar. Yes I have a new o ring also ready to go in.

 

[flobber]

I’d be measuring your existing clutch before ordering a new, make sure it’s not a 200mm clutch. Also if your replacing the flywheel oil seal I recommend you do NOT buy the seals available from the major Vw suppliers. I buy viton rubber seals these days from simply bearings. They are superior quality and don’t leak.

FKM Rotary Shaft Seals: Single & Double Lip FKM Rubber Shaft Seals

simplybearings.co.uk

I’m not going to order a new clutch the one in there isn’t worn or that old, bought it for my old engine before the bottom end gave up. It only has about 2-3k miles on it. I did get a new clutch release bearing.

I bought one of those pink double lipped seals as suggested by someone else in this thread. Think it was from air cooled. If it’s really worth it I would be amenable to getting a viton one but I really don’t know the proper measurements.

 

[keekster64]

The standard seal in a type 1 engine is 70mm ID, 90mm OD and 10mm width.

 

[flobber]

The standard seal in a type 1 engine is 70mm ID, 90mm OD and 10mm width.

That’s great, thanks. They offer 2 brands; simply Viton or SKF , I assume the more expensive skf is the preferable one

 

[keekster64]

I bought the cheaper seal, but they are both viton rubber which is what counts. These seals are what modern cars use, and can take the higher temperatures of an air cooled engine.