There are terminal numbers on the switches so I'd say connecting to the same numbers would do the trick.

Otherwise you need to check how the new switch works by doing a continuity check on all the terminals in all the switch positions.

At present sounds like you have a power connected to a terminal that grounds thro the switches body

 

The numbers don't quite match up.

On the switch I have 30, 31, 31b, 53, 53a, 53b

On the wiper motor I have 3 (this goes to the fuse box), 31b and 54d

S

 

Ah.

You are trying to use a later 2-spd switch with an early single-spd motor.

But we can make it work.
This page on my web site has a section on wiper circuits:
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/htm/elec.htm

This sketch shows the 2-spd wiper wiring:

and this sketch the single-spd motor circuit:

To use the new switch, connect as follows:

Fuse wire to #30 on switch.

#31b to #31b on the switch.

#54 (you saw this as "3") goes to #53a on the switch.

#54d goes to #53 on the switch.

If you wish, you can place a jumper lead between #53 and #53b on the switch; that will allow the motor to run in either the first or second position of the switch.

Speedy Jim
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/

Be sure to earth the wiper frame.

 

Thanks Jim

How do I earth the wiper frame? Also, do you know why the fuse is blowing after I fit switch to dashboard?

 

The frame might already be earthed (just be cautious); look for a flat brass jumper "clip" around one of the rubber isolation mounts.

Term #31 on the switch earths itself when the switch shaft is secured to the dash.

Try the connections I suggested and post back whether the fuse still blows (it should not).

Jim

 

Popped again - 3rd fuse today.

For reference this is how I connected up (Wiper to switch):

Fuse went to 30
31b went to 31b
54d went to 53

On this occasion the wiper move very slowly for about a couple of inches before fuse blew.

 

Slow turning usually means that either the grease in the gearbox has turned to stone or the wiper shafts are seized. This may not be an electrical problem now.

Did this wiper motor run correctly in recent memory?

If it's original, the grease inside the box is now 1/2 century old!
(give or take...)

 

The car has been off the road for sometime so I do not have a comparison. However, I wired the switch up as above before I actually fitted switch to the dash and it ran sweet as a nut. I am only having the problem after the switch has been fitted to the dash.

I hope that makes sense?

 

Yes, that's a good clue.

Try this:
Pull the wire off Term #31b (at either end).
How does it run now?

 

OK - done that and some odd things happen.

Firstly, I pulled the 31b and tried switch unfitted i.e. not in the dash. It worked perfectly, exactly the same with 31b attached.

I then fitted switch. Now I am having some problems fitting as it seems the the gap between the switch body and the escutcheon created by the dash metal means that the switch knob will not screw down far enough - hope the makes sense.

Anyway I screwed the knob in as far as I could. As I slowly unscrewed the wipers started working perfectly. I then screwed the know in and the wipers stop - they work. Although I do not think I am actually engaging the switch.

The long and short of it is that they are now working but probably not as they should.

S

 

Yikes!

Makes me think that there is a fault inside the switch.
Was it purchased new? Any recourse?

Tedious, but maybe investigate the switch workings further.

 

Only got the switch this week.

Is testing it easy?

 

I'm unsure exactly what to test on it.
But the fact that screwing the knob in affects the function is a definite red flag.

 

OK thanks. What was the significance of removing terminal 31b?

 

I was afraid that 31b might have been shorting the motor to earth. False lead/red herring.