Really rusty - replace.
Surface rust - soak in Deox C.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Wire brush is always a good start.

 

Soak in vinegar also works if you're not in a hurry.

TBH most of the nuts & bolts on my beetle have been replaced with stainless. (not the structural or safety critical ones though)
Stainless fastenings aren't particularly expensive, I get a lot of mine mail order from here - https://www.orbitalfasteners.co.uk/

Dave.

 

Hi,

What method do you use to clean up rusty old bolts prior to reinstalling on the car?

Is an ultrasonic cleaner sufficient enough or is a tumbler more effective?

Thanks
Elliiy

Funnily enough I've been looking at ulira sonic cleaners to ight. Fancy a 15l but not sure if big ough to fit a 40 dell in submerged !?

This might help....

However I have to agree as above and I always aim to replace any nuts and bolts with stainless for the cost it's not worth messing imho

 

unless it's an odd shaped nut or bolt, i replace with new. with the advent of ebay you can get high tensile and stainless fixings in reasonable quantities for reasonable prices.

otherwise it's brake cleaner and a wire brush, then grease them up before refitting.

 

Overnight dip in Phosphoric acid (Jenolite), dissolves rust, and leaves a coat of iron phosphate, after drying the bits, a spray of Cold galvanising paint, keeps them good for a long time.

 

Thanks for the replies. I have tried the citric acid method and so far getting good results.

I will get some cold galvanising spray to put on them once rust free

Thanks

 

Thanks for the replies. I have tried the citric acid method and so far getting good results.

I will get some cold galvanising spray to put on them once rust free

Thanks

I get Cold Galvanising spray from Toolstation, good quality and price

 

I've done a 2nd vid continuing on from the last vid anyone is bothered ?

 

I've been using citric acid as well. Lazy and cheap for cleaning surface rust. 1kg to 10litres of hot water seems to be very effective. I usually etch prime or use hydrate 80 depending on what it is and its condition. Seems very effective. If you add wall paper paste, it turns it into the equivalent of deox gel for pennies.

 

Good video - thanks for taking the time & trouble.

My guess is that the parts from the hot bath flash rusted after (I assume) you washed them over with clean water & left to dry ?

Any really clean bare steel will rust very quickly in a damp environment. Most acid (AFAIAA) will remove rust, I have used hydrocloric acid (Brick cleaning acid from builders merchants) and vinegar with success in the past.

However, Phosphoric acid probably best as it leaves a phosphate coating which in itself gives some protection until it can be painted. (I'm not a chemist, please someone correct me if I'm wrong but thats as I understand it.)

Another way of keeping things agitated thats a bit lower tech than an ultrasonic cleaner would be to use a fish tank air pump and airstone in the acid bath, but best make sure you cover it very well so that acid spray from the bubbles doesn't go where it's not wanted. Ceramic airstone probably less likely to get attacked by the acid than a cheapo one... IMHO of course.

Dave.

Edit - Video has vanished ?????

 

Hi guys sorry for the late reply. I didn't do anything different with the washing and drying process between the 3 batches fm but for some reason the hot bath batch just look absolute crap in comparison. Only difference I can think is the hot bath was a bit weaker mix, but they looked ok when first came out.

I'm deffo trying the Phosphoric option next or even citric and then Phosphoric. Might even mix them! LOL.

Ive also bought some other acid I forget the ma me which I'm going to try etching with

 

If you are ever in any doubt about the integrity or condition of an old fastener in a stressed/safety-critical application, use this test: Drop it in a bucket of water. If it floats it is safe to reuse.