Hi, I've just had my '72 bay waxoyled with Hammerite's clear waxoyl in the cavities and black coloured underneath the vehicle - chassis and arches etc. I thought I was getting Hammerite's underbody seal on the chassis and arches and not just the black soft waxoyl. Geniune confusion here between the guy offering the service and me. Am now just wondering which is most effective on the chassis & arches - underbody seal or soft waxoyl. I understand that the soft black waxoyl that has been put on in those areas underneath, is just the same as the clear stuff in the cavities, except that a black pigment has been added to hide whatver you are covering. I'm sure people have told me that the soft waxoyl is the wrong stuff for chassis and arches, because it wears off quite quickly in those exposed areas, and that the harder undeseal should be used. Just wondered what the concensus is on the two products please?
gnarlysurfer
Black Waxoyl is IMO better than underseal as underseal has a habit of sealing problems away, retaining water and moisture against the metal until its a big problem. With Waxoyl it protects even bare metal although its not permanent and should be inspected annually, usually after winter and patches can be added to to maintain protection.
Underseal can be good at protecting underbodies but it is totally reliant on the underbody paint being perfect and fully protective.
Underseal can be good at protecting underbodies but it is totally reliant on the underbody paint being perfect and fully protective.
^ yup. underseal should go over good paint, where it will protect against stone chips, etc. waxoyl is an oily/waxy coating that you can wang on regardless of the state of the paintwork, as it will stick to metal and protect it from rust and in theory it will stick to surface rust and stop it getting any worse.
both rely on being inspected and maintained. underseal can come away from the paint underneath and trap water, leading to more corrosion than if you hadn't bothered at all. stones can still eventually knock holes in the waxoyl. unlike underseal, waxoyl you can happily just wash down every 12 months and apply a new coat.
some argue that if you inspect regularly and keep on top of stonechip repairs then you don't need either.
both rely on being inspected and maintained. underseal can come away from the paint underneath and trap water, leading to more corrosion than if you hadn't bothered at all. stones can still eventually knock holes in the waxoyl. unlike underseal, waxoyl you can happily just wash down every 12 months and apply a new coat.
some argue that if you inspect regularly and keep on top of stonechip repairs then you don't need either.
Waxoyl is good for internal box sections that you can't paint properly, and areas like inside door bottoms where you have a spot welded overlapped seam. Once applied then that's it - you don't need to re-apply as it won't wear away like it will inside wheel arches etc.
When sprayed on top of paint, it just stops the paint from going rusty. To protect metal, it needs to be in contact with the metal.
Dave.
When sprayed on top of paint, it just stops the paint from going rusty. To protect metal, it needs to be in contact with the metal.
Dave.
i used this on my arches
underbodyseal with waxoil
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/370834071619?limghlpsr=true&hlpv=2&ops=true&viphx=1&hlpht=true&lpid=108&device=c&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0-L&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=108&ff19=0
mine
underbodyseal with waxoil
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/370834071619?limghlpsr=true&hlpv=2&ops=true&viphx=1&hlpht=true&lpid=108&device=c&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0-L&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=108&ff19=0
mine
Waxoyl is great in cavities, its not bad for the underside generally and as everyone has said needs checking annually and maybe some more adding.
Having said that, if you have it under the wheelarches in areas where the rain water is thrown hard against and you drive in the rain soon after having the waxoyl put on it will be blasted right back off again.
I have been waxoyling today as it happens, the previous coat from a couple of years ago was generally still good
I thin it with white spirit in an old food mixer for cavities, the idea being that it is more likely to seep into the seams as its more runny and takes a long time to dry.
Having said that, if you have it under the wheelarches in areas where the rain water is thrown hard against and you drive in the rain soon after having the waxoyl put on it will be blasted right back off again.
I have been waxoyling today as it happens, the previous coat from a couple of years ago was generally still good
I thin it with white spirit in an old food mixer for cavities, the idea being that it is more likely to seep into the seams as its more runny and takes a long time to dry.
i thinned mine down (waxoyl) with whitespritit and put it in a spray bottle and sprayed it in some hard to reach places...
Anti-rust treatments - external coatings and cavity waxes - real world scenario testing/comparisons
I came across this really helpful and detailed report by Classics Monthly who began the longest-running test (3 years!) of its kind in the UK. No gimmicks, just time. Their findings could help preserve your classic's metal, quite possibly indefinitely. I thought this might be useful reading for anybody interested in keeping their vintage vehicle protected from the dreaded 'tin worm' that is rust!
I added the review to my blog if anyone wants to read/download it?: http://www.vdubxs.com/anti-rust-tre...ents-external-coatings-and-cavity-waxes-real-world-scenario-testingcomparisons/
I came across this really helpful and detailed report by Classics Monthly who began the longest-running test (3 years!) of its kind in the UK. No gimmicks, just time. Their findings could help preserve your classic's metal, quite possibly indefinitely. I thought this might be useful reading for anybody interested in keeping their vintage vehicle protected from the dreaded 'tin worm' that is rust!
I added the review to my blog if anyone wants to read/download it?: http://www.vdubxs.com/anti-rust-tre...ents-external-coatings-and-cavity-waxes-real-world-scenario-testingcomparisons/
Just did my daily driver with waxoil, in all the cavities, suspension arms,bonnet, boot lid, engine bay, everywhere.Did it on a hotish day and it did not need thinning at all, in fact it was so thin it went everywhere.The next day I had wax trails down my front and rear bumpers where it had leaked out.
this was it before i stripped it, the heater channels was in a sorry state
this is where im at now (heater channels replaced, floor welded and a few coats of yellow on the floorpan)
little bit of welding to do including fitting a new front valance, respray and im good to go
this is where im at now (heater channels replaced, floor welded and a few coats of yellow on the floorpan)
little bit of welding to do including fitting a new front valance, respray and im good to go
i like the carb, access is not the best but can be done.
twin carbs are probably the way forward but i was limited for space being a wizard.
once it was set it ran great, brilliant fuel economy when not driven in anger
twin carbs are probably the way forward but i was limited for space being a wizard.
once it was set it ran great, brilliant fuel economy when not driven in anger
Just to add 2 cents.
You hit the nail on the head in the beginning with the underseal being better than waxoil underneath (waxoil for cavities). But either will be better than nothing...My local valeter just uses wax oil, but he is finally lisening that its the wrong product for those that actually want an underseal. Ignorance is bliss, bless him.
Ive personally STOPPED using underseal underneath (I still use wax oil for the cavities).
I moved on to an epoxy primer (also used on boats, and oil rigs), which really adheres to any rust, and is impenetrable, and then a stone chip (zinc impreginated type) on top. I then even lacquer it!
The advantage, is that you can paint the stoneship body colour, it remains flexiable, and you can wash off the dirt, and see if any rust forms. It dosen't trap water, and if it did you could see it, as it would just peel/ballon. Its what all MODERN car manufacturers use, underseal is from the 1960's.
AND
if you want to weld anything at a later date, then you can just sand or grind the coating off. With underseal it goes into the rust pits, and just makes a mess when you try and remove it.
Underseal does work, but there are better techniques now. Its better used if you know you are going to drop the whole car in acid in a few years, not for piecemeal repairs in future underneath.
I actually treat/remove the rust, before the primer, etc, etc there are quite a few steps, I don't just slap it on. I'll happily explain the procedures if your interested. Ive even gone back a year after doing my work to see if the metal underneath is still pure (i.e not rusted beneath the coating). So i know it works, and some of this was 7 years ago :
You hit the nail on the head in the beginning with the underseal being better than waxoil underneath (waxoil for cavities). But either will be better than nothing...My local valeter just uses wax oil, but he is finally lisening that its the wrong product for those that actually want an underseal. Ignorance is bliss, bless him.
Ive personally STOPPED using underseal underneath (I still use wax oil for the cavities).
I moved on to an epoxy primer (also used on boats, and oil rigs), which really adheres to any rust, and is impenetrable, and then a stone chip (zinc impreginated type) on top. I then even lacquer it!
The advantage, is that you can paint the stoneship body colour, it remains flexiable, and you can wash off the dirt, and see if any rust forms. It dosen't trap water, and if it did you could see it, as it would just peel/ballon. Its what all MODERN car manufacturers use, underseal is from the 1960's.
AND
if you want to weld anything at a later date, then you can just sand or grind the coating off. With underseal it goes into the rust pits, and just makes a mess when you try and remove it.
Underseal does work, but there are better techniques now. Its better used if you know you are going to drop the whole car in acid in a few years, not for piecemeal repairs in future underneath.
I actually treat/remove the rust, before the primer, etc, etc there are quite a few steps, I don't just slap it on. I'll happily explain the procedures if your interested. Ive even gone back a year after doing my work to see if the metal underneath is still pure (i.e not rusted beneath the coating). So i know it works, and some of this was 7 years ago :
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