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Points Gap: Feeler Gauge/Dwell inconsistent!

14K views 26 replies 8 participants last post by  ainokea  
#1 ·
Hi
I'm hoping someone can help me with this as it's driving me nuts. I'm tuning my VW T2 1978. It's hydraulic lifters so no need to adjust valves. So points ago is next. If I set the points gap using a feeler gauge to 0.016 and check it with a dwell meter the reading is 43. So way off the desirable 50 degrees. And if I set the points using the Dwell meter to 50 degrees the feeler gauge is nearer 0.013. How can this be right? The distributor is new (I should have left the points at factory setting). Any help to get me past this stag would be great.
 
#2 ·
Points faces smooth and unpitted ?

Slop in the distributor shaft or points mounting plate ? (I know it's a new distributor but these days "new" doesn't always mean "works correctly"

Otherwise, I'd adjust by the dwell setting, then set the timing afterwards.

Check it again after a few miles and if it's still the same then leave it be.

Dave.
 
#3 ·
By new I assume you mean 'cheap reproduction'. I'd set the points and see how it drives.

Then I'd get a second hand stock SVDA and fit it with an ignition module from Accuspark, Pertronix or similar, they are all the same module anyway, then other than oiling the wick in the shaft I'd leave the dissy be.
 
#5 ·
The feeler gap is only ever an approximate settling, dwell angle is more accurate.
 
#7 ·
The recommended Dwell angle is what you are aiming for.
Manufacturers give Points gap settings, because they are just an indirect way of measuring dwell, with very simple tools.
The 'gap' is calculated for a 'known' distributor cam, (combination of profile, duration and lift). Aftermarket distributors may not have exactly the same shape cam as the VW original unit, so the original 'gap' measurement doesn't give the same dwell angle.
If you have the equipment to measure dwell, use it.
 
#6 ·
Shouldn't both the feeler reading and dwell reading compliment each other though.

Shouldn't both the feeler reading and dwell reading compliment each other though? If the dizzy is working properly.
 
#12 ·
It turns out there was nothing wrong with it. I thought she might start better with a new one. I'd tried everything else and couldn't find anything that would improve starting. She turns over but a real pain to start.
 
#14 ·
First, take the cap and rotor off. Next, loosen the screw that holds the points, just enough you can move it with a screwdriver. next, connect your dwell meter. Then have someone crank the engine. Set the dwell at 46 degs. Tighten the hold down screw, and get a test reading, 44 or 45 degs. are acceptable and the points will last longer as when it reaches 50 degs. it will be time for a change. Shoot the timing and at 3300 RPM set it at 31 degs. BTDC. You have a dwell meter so feelers are not needed.
 
#15 ·
Thanks ainokea I'll have a go at the points today. Can you elaborate on "Shoot the timing and at 3300 RPM set it at 31 degs." I don't understand it. My mechanic and notches on my pulley point to 5degrees ATDC. It's difficult to find confirmation online as to what it should be but last time my mechanic tuned her up she purred like a kitten. Just wish I could do it myself. However, she still guzzled fuel and I've been tinkering to try and work out why. I suspected the float in the carb wasn't working right and flooding the engine. I had a look and it seemed to float OK. However, after weighing the float it came in at 22grams where I'm told it should be 10grams. I have a new float now and once I get her tuned up I'll see if we get more than 18mpg! I know she runs super rich due to the heavy black soot coming out of the exhaust but I've found tuning the carb almost impossible. Anyway, points and timing first, then I'm on to the carb.
 
#19 ·
Wow! How did you find that out?

I'm presuming BTDC is in a clock wise direction so the TDC chip on the back of the pulley would come after the timing mark on the front. Here's a pick of my pulley which has the TDC chip on the back before the timing chip. Which is why I thought it was 5ATDC. My mechanic re painted the mark too so I presumed it's right. I'm not saying your wrong, I just want to be sure.

Also, here's a pic of my new dissy. Can you tell me the timing for this please. Maybe I should put the old one back now that it's all cleaned up. What do you think?

I didn't realise timing was directly dependant on the dissy. Thought it was the engine number. I'm learning all the time.

Thanks in advance.
 
#24 ·
Take no. 1 plug out and feel for tdc with a long thin screwdriver and mark your pulley with a blob of paint. Then mark 30-32 degrees with a timing wheel and set your timing to this with a strobe at 3000+ rpm. Don't worry about static or timing at idle.
 
#25 ·
Daddy day care meant I didn't get to play this afternoon. Tomorrow morning I'll have the old dizzy back in and then it's points, timing, carb. I don't have a strobe light to set the timing but I'll get one. Can you tell me how you set the timing at 3500rpm using it?
 
#26 ·
This morning I got some time to work on the van. I put the old dizzy back in and set the dwell angle to 48.5 (near enough for now). And adjusted the timing to 7.5 BTDC as advised. Took her out for a spin and she ran and sounded great.

She even started a bit better but theres work to do there still.

Thanks for all your help.
 
#27 ·
Find TDC on the pulley. Set the timing light to 31 degs. With the engine running, raise the rpm's and shoot the timing. when it shows the TDC mark at 0 on the pulley, lock it down. Then check the timing is correct. At idle it should be around 10 to 12 degs. at 3300 RPM's no more than 32 degs.