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Old 11-04-2020, 10:55 AM   #1
Zebedee
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Default 1988 T3 Caravelle

Since i've pretty much run out of things to do on my bug my attention has turned to my T3 Caravelle.
Apart from some seam grot thats pretty hard to eradicate she's not in too bad a shape.
The worst bits are some rot around the filler cap surround (and probably in the B pillar behnd the tanks expansion bottle), a seam thats lost its flange on the rear corner and some holes in the lower front panel above the deformation panel.
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Old 11-04-2020, 11:03 AM   #2
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The rear hatch is rotten all along its bottom where the inner and outer skins meet and as a repair panel for the inner isn't available i might try and see if its possible to use a cheap sliding door inner repair and remake the outer inch.
Good second hand hatches are way out of my price range and new are hundreds and hundred of pounds.

There also a small bit of rot in the passengers side floor which i think is above the jacking point outrigger. Its not visible from underneath so i assume its just mud or sand thats got on top of the outrigger under the floor and eruped out.

I've not managed to find a good second hand 5 speed petrol gearbox to replace this one yet. Mines currently missing 5th gear, grumbles in 1st and 2nd and leaks like a sieve. Its too far gone to rebuild as i think the main bearing has pounded the case to death plus a rebuild could cost a grand or more.
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Old 11-04-2020, 11:25 AM   #3
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The engine has 190K on the clock and leaks like the Exxon Valdez.
I know it need a flywheel oil seal and also the one behind the pulley, plus the drain plug has an iffy thread so won't tighten up but looking around it seems to show a lot of the oil is on top of the engine too.

I removed the dizzy and found a flat dizzy shaft seal, the breather tower has an O ring under it and that was split and there was oil escaping from under the fuel pump too. The dipstick tube was also missing its O ring from its base.
I put an order for all the seals and gaskets in to Brickwerks so they should be with me in a day or two.
Luckily the paper gasket at the base of the oil filler tube was still dry as it seems its impossible to get to one of the mounting nuts with the silencer, heat shield and engine bar in place.

I removed the alternator and belt so i could get the crankshaft pulley off, but even with the van in gear, the handbrake pulled on tight and all the wheels chocked it still moved when i tried to undo the pulley nut.
Apparently theres a hole in the flywheel you can stick an M8 bolt in to lock the flywheel. Who knew? Bolt fitted in the flywheel and the nut came off with just a heave on a breaker bar.
With the pulley off i then struggled to get the seal out as access is pretty limited with the exhaust heat shield in place and coolant hoses everywhere.
The claw end of a hammer seems to do the job nicely though.
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Old 11-04-2020, 06:12 PM   #4
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The sump plug thread in the case is stripped.
A few coils of metal came out with the sump plug and some more came out when i stuffed a cloth wrapped screwdriver in there to dry the oil out to allow me to get a better look at the threads. Seems like its been helicoiled before as they were steel coils not aluminium from the case.

The original sump plug is only a short thing and a few people have suggested using a longer mercedes sump plug to hopefully catch more of the threads in the case.
I'm not sure this solution will work if its been helicoiled as surely it will have been tapped to a bigger size before the helicoil was fitted.

I removed the oil filter only to find a cracked rubber o ring on it. That'll explain some of the oil leakage.
Removing the tin under the pushrod tubes on the passengers side revealed it to be dry with no leakage.
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Old 11-04-2020, 06:14 PM   #5
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I gave both the pulley and the alternator bracket a clean up and a couple of coats of paint.
Did the same to the dipstick tube and its mounting bracket and hung them on my drying tree.
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Old 11-04-2020, 09:48 PM   #6
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Some horrible rot on the seams

Could it be helicoiled again?
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Old 12-04-2020, 10:54 AM   #7
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I don't really know. I've never used one or even come across one before.
From looking at the youtube videos the hole is tapped to create a thread and then helicoil inserted. If it was M14 before then i assume a new m14 helicoil might possibly be able to be installed again if i can get the remains of the old one out. It seems to have broken up as theres about 1/2 a dozen coils in the oil drain pan.

I've attacked the seams a few times over the years but its usually from the backside of the panels that it comes from. Theres no way to get to a lot of them so other than cutting them out and recreating the two panel edges i'll always be fighting a loosing battle. They look good for a year maybe then it comes back through.
Halfords no longer sell the paint in aerosols so it'll just end up red oxided then painted with aldi metal paint for the time being.
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Old 12-04-2020, 07:59 PM   #8
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Just as i thought. No thread.
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Old 13-04-2020, 06:12 PM   #9
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Turns out the coils from the sump drain plug were the threads from the case. Looks like it'd been overtightened before. I didn't find a copper crush washer under the bolt head. I thought it might have just dropped in the oil drain pan but when i tipped it all into a container it wasn't in the bottom of the pan.
I'm gonna have to buy a M14 x 1.5 helicoil kit to do this one thread which is a bugger. Shame its not the same thread as a spark plug as that might come in useful at some point. Spark plugs are M14 x 1.25.

Removed the starter as it'll need removing when the gearbox is removed anyway. I might as well give it a clean up and some rust cure and a paint while its out.
It was rebuilt about 5 or 6 years ago and the casing was sand blasted and painted. Didn't stay nice very long.
Alternator isn't too bad so i'll just give the case a scrub and might paint the pulley. I tried to remove the nut holding the pulley on but i can't get it undone.
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Old 14-04-2020, 11:15 AM   #10
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My brickwerks order arrived today so at least i can get a few bits back together.
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