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Recommendations on building a mild 1776 cc engine for my 1303.

5444 Views 37 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  qwan
I am building a stock looking 1776 cc engine for my 1303.

Any comments suggestions and specially experience with a similar setup, on the specks below, are most appreciated?

What i want is a civilized easy driven engine that pulls from low down.
Of course I want as much power as I can get, but not on the great expense of low down power and torque.
Going from 1300 to 1776 will naturally give a great deal of what I want, but maybe there are more easy apples to pick?

I will use:

Cast AA pistons and cylinders.

AB 1300 engine case – AS41- With Hover mods.

Full flow oil pump / filter.

Stock crank, con – rods.

Stock TP heads, and do a little flow work on them

34pict carburetor – MAYBE a progressive Weber.......

Probably stock valve train with bolted rocker axles.
Depends on whats needed for the cam I am going to use.

CR 8 – 8.5

Stock looking exhaust with CSP High Flow tailpipes and either I will mess the internals up in the stock exhaust, or maybe buy the CSP stock looking one.

As I don’t want a screamer and as I rarely will see over 4000 rpm, I am a little I doubt about if I just should stick with the stock cam or go for a mild upgrade.
Have tried to order a CB 2280 cheater cam but the order were canceled because it is not available any more.
That leaves me with stock cam,
or maybe an Engel W90,
or maybe 1:25 rockers with stock cam is just what I need,
or if some of you folks have a better suggestion?

Recommendations to the rest of the setup is of course also most welcome.

Have been looking a little towards this setup CSP has posted, using a W90 cam, in conjunction with their High Flow tailpipes.
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Have already got it linebored ,by someone else with the right tooling, who knows how.

My oldest son is a toolmaker, therefore the machine work is for free. 😁
Have the bores been inspected and found to be correct? 20 microns is a tolerance I have never in 40+ years seen achieved by common or garden lineboring techniques which most use, but I have seen the destruction it leads to. I have been told too many times by VW 'engineers' that they set the cutters with a tenth thou' clock, simply assuming the holes will end up equally accurate. Undersize or oversize, the wrong size is storing up troubles for what is essentially building a block of new flats on old bungalow foundations...
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Ran a 2007 in a Bay Camper for 50000 miles without extra cooling. Not a problem unless you plan to try and cruise everywhere at warp speed...
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Thanks all.

Have bought a new standard oil cooler and will monitor the oil temp. If it is getting to high for my liking, I can always later ad a oil cooler more in conjunction with the oil filter installation.
It takes no more power for a 1776 to push a Beetle along at 70mph than it does a 1300. It might run marginally hotter than a stock engine due to reduced fin area but this can be addressed with cooling system tweaks. Only repeated hard acceleration/braking and cruising at illegal speed will overheat a properly built oversize engine.

Wil your engineer provide an inspection certificate? If not, or he is offended to be asked, you are quite naïve to have 'no doubts...'. I have seen line bored cases as much as three thou' out of tolerance - this particular gem having been done by one of the real 'Big Names' of their era. The engine ran for 30 seconds before seizing solid.
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Just hoping to save people from the expense and disappointment I have seen so many times over the decades...
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Scrap? Why?
Further, magnesium has a fatigue life, just as does aluminium (think exploding aluminium crank pulleys - ever wondered why VW didn't do that in their weight-savings quest?), and case cracks are common; how many folk out there crack-detect their cases before stuffing in and bolting on all those expensive performance goodies? I've said it before and I'll drone on like an old curmudgeon and say it again:
Don't build a block of flats on bungalow foundations.
The general lack of understanding of even basic metrology is all too evident in the VW engine building scene, and the days of bolt-together quality engine parts was gone three decades' ago. Yes, there are line bored engines happily chugging away, but for those of us who consider a 50 000 mile engine life to be a minimum, they are unworthy. A weekend toy with little mileage? Often no problem. A reliable engine doing 20 000 miles a year, year after year for business as I used to? Probably not, but don't be surprised to see the oil light come on at idle after a long motorway run with a few thousand miles on a line bored case!
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