[GARRICK.CLARK]

Stock ports
Stock size valves but with stainless exhaust valves is best for torque. Big ports mess up the low down pull of a small cc motor. 1st motor I did over 30 years ago was a 1776.
Stock heads
Euro race H grind cam. (unavailable now)
Twin 40 dells.
Coupled to an AT gear. box. Brilliant combo for low end grunt.

 

[GARRICK.CLARK]

You'll need to balance the whole bottom end to achieve longevity.

 

[GARRICK.CLARK]

I would test the strength of all the case stud threads with double nuts on the studs. Use a torque wrench set a bit more than what the manual says. If all the threads are good then cut it for 1835 at the most. 1914 is only 79 cc more., hardly noticeable really.
Are you sure this case is worthy of spending money on cutting it for larger cylinders.

 

[GARRICK.CLARK]

Check the measurements for standard wall 1776/1835. These cylinders will last along time and aren't a massive amount of money. The ones I used on my old motor where these with 10mm threads. It was fine for years. If this isn't a daily driver, and only a summer vehicle you might not do enough miles to get to the re do the top end stage for another 10 years.

 

[GARRICK.CLARK]

I won't entertain an old case, too risky

 

[GARRICK.CLARK]

Leave the cooler where it is. There's no huge positives to gain.

 

[GARRICK.CLARK]

I used to send 10 cases at a time off to John Maher in the 80's. Quite often 5 of those would be scrap.

 

[GARRICK.CLARK]

Too far gone on the main bearing saddles and or sprung centre main saddle.